Oaxaca City: the good and the bad.
I had last been in Oaxaca 8 years ago. I hadn’t loved the city on that last visit but had liked it enough to say “let’s go back and explore more”.
So, on this trip, a 2-month trip though Mexico, we decided to stay a week in Oaxaca. After a previous week of “fast travel” through the states of Guanajuato, Aguascalientes and Zacatecas, we decided that we had to slow down and recharge our batteries.
I’ll give you my honest thoughts on Oaxaca below.
Coming back after 8 years, the differences were evident. Oaxaca has changed tremendously. It has become a very popular place among foreigners. Not since San Miguel de Allende had we seen so many white faces. But they’re a different type of foreigner here – in SMA they tend to be older people with money. In Oaxaca there’s a lot of young people and, judging by the people we came across in a few neighbourhood cafes, most seem to be digital nomads or longer-term tourists.
Gentrification and high prices: I though I was having a stroke when I saw the cost of a taxi at Oaxaca airport: 445 pesos to get downtown. I’ll talk about that later.
A video giving you a taste of Oaxaca
The Colours of Oaxaca
Just like 8 years ago, I was struck by the colours of Oaxaca. Everywhere you look there is colour: the colourfully painted walls of buildings, the ‘flags’ hanging over streets, the street art you see adorning the walls in neighbourhoods outside the center.
Oaxaca is different from many cities in Mexico. Most of the buildings here are single storey buildings in the vibrant colours I mention above. I call it “ranch style”. You’ll see it in Northern Mexico, cities like Chihuahua (and to a lesser degree Aguascalientes and Zacatecas) with these low-level buildings. But in Oaxaca they take the colours to a whole different level, it’s a city exploding with colour. Add to that the lushness of vegetation you find here (Oaxaca is more humid and warmer than cities in Central Mexico). It all gives Oaxaca a very tropical vibe.
What to See and Do in Oaxaca
While there are many things to see in Oaxaca, there are 2 absolute “must-see’s” in my opinion.
1. The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán.
One of the most beautiful churches in Mexico, it is spectacular. It was built by the Dominicans starting in 1575 and was only completed in 1731 (money problems as well as a couple of earthquakes resulted in interrupted construction).
You’ll sometimes see a greenish hue to the church depending on the lighting. That’s because the façade is made of Cantera verde, a green volcanic stone. Inside you’ll see incredibly elaborate frescos, murals, and an altar gilded in gold leaf.
It is a stupendous church.
2. Monte Alban.
It’s listed as one of the Top 5 Archaeological sites in Mexico (the others being Teotihuacan, Palenque, Chichen Itza, and Uxmal). But Monte Alban is special because of its spectacular geographic location; on a 400 meter plateau, it has 360-degree views over the valleys surrounding it including, down below, the city of Oaxaca.
The city was founded around 500 BC by the Zapotecs, a race of warriors and artisans who also built the archaeological site found at nearby Mitla. Attracted by the location (it was the perfect spot for defense against invaders) they levelled off the hilltop and built temples and palaces. The city hits its peak from about 350 to 700 AD, it’s population reaching 25,000 during this time.
Just like Teotihuacan, what happened to Monte Alban is a mystery. When the Spanish arrived in 1521 the city had long been abandoned.
Today it is a popular tourist site. But between the history and the location, it is a spectacular place that has to be visited.
As I mention above, these are two “must-see” attractions in Oaxaca. But if you’re here, there are some other attractions of interest:
The Zocalo and the Metropolitan Cathedral of Oaxaca. Both the Zocalo and the Cathedral are ho-hum by Mexican standards. But both are worth exploring.
The Alcala is the pedestrian-only street connecting the city’s two main squares: the Zocalo on one end and the Plaza de Santo Domingo on the other. It’s a pretty half-kilometer walk on what is the most popular (and busiest) street in Oaxaca. You’ll see lots of pretty colonial buildings along the way.
Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. A favorite of locals, this huge Basilica (built in Baroque style) is dedicated to Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude) the patron saint of Oaxaca.
The historic center of Oaxaca is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Other than the attractions mentioned above, there aren’t really any single standout sights – I think the beauty of Oaxaca lies in the total ensemble and not the individual sights themselves. Explore the colourful streets and colonial buildings. Pop your head in the many small museums and art galleries. That’s how you’ll get an appreciation of Oaxaca.
Note: a special place that we wandered into by accident: the Quinta Real Hotel. It’s a luxury hotel that was the site of the ex-convent of Santa Catalina. Somehow the hotel has blended the old with the new. You can’t just stroll in…but it’s worth going for a coffee or drink and having a look around. Very impressive. And if you want to splurge for accommodations you really can’t beat the Quinta Real.
On this visit we also explored the popular neighbourhoods of Xochimilco and Jalatlaco. They are two old neighbourhoods that have really gotten popular because of its street art. For those looking to visit but unsure: Xochimilco is less polished, less “happening”, and its art focused on the main street that runs through it. Jalatlaco is vibrant, “happening” (lots of cool little cafes, bars, even a market) and has many streets full of street art. We really liked it. Both felt safe. Visit both if you have the time but prioritize Jalatlaco if time is limited (see the video for more on these two neighbourhoods)
I’ve mentioned what “to See” above. But many of Oaxaca’s highlights are cultural attractions which fall into what “to Do”.
Mezcal. One of the top things “To do” in Oaxaca includes drinking mezcal. We had a great experience at La Mezcalería (on Miguel Hidalgo): a small place with a local clientele, lots of mezcal, and good prices. An authentic place and the owner is super friendly. We went through a lot of excellent mezcal. Recommended.
Food. Oaxaca is known for its food: mole, Tlayuda, Oaxacan cheese, tamales, grasshopper… Go to the Mercado 20 de Noviembre for all that. But note that if you’re a non-meat eater you might be put off by all the meat being roasted.
Chocolate. Lots of great chocolate in Oaxaca. “Mayordomo” is the spot for that and we came here (just as I did the last time) for chocolate shakes.
The above are all typical tourist things. They are. But you’re in Oaxaca….
Tourists, gentrification…and honest thoughts on Oaxaca
There are a lot of foreigners in Oaxaca. I was surprised. Many are young people.
Everyday we’d pick up a coffee and maybe a sandwich at the local café (Cafeto Cacao. Quite nice). There were always a couple of girls there with their computers, giving off that digital nomad vibe (“I’m not a tourist. You can tell that by the way I co-ordinate local textiles and colors in my wardrobe. I’m giving you the dirty eye because I’m busy writing my latest post on why Oaxaca is the greatest place on earth”).
I guess I’m being a dick.
Our first night we took a local’s recommendation and ate at Casa Taviche. Besides the food being underwhelming and prices high (relative to other places we’ve been over our last 2 months of travel), the place was packed exclusively with foreigners. I hate it when locals recommend a place thinking I want to eat in a place full of other foreigners.
Everywhere we walked during our one week visit we saw young white people walking around. Where were their parents? After weeks spent in places like Morelia, Patzcuaro, Aguascalientes and Zacatecas, I suddenly remembered the first time I was in San Miguel de Allende over 10 years ago and the feeling that SMA wasn’t the “real” Mexico but some version of “Mexico-lite” (I’ve gotten to really like SMA over the years. My mother lives there which is why I’m always back in Mexico. But it’s still “some version of Mexico-lite” to me no matter how much I always enjoy going back).
I know Oaxaca is a lot less gentrified (to date) than San Miguel de Allende. Walk a few blocks outside the center in any direction and you come across Mexican neighbourhoods where there are no cafes filled with foreigners and where walls are crumbling and in dire need of a paint job. In Oaxaca the gentrification is a lot more concentrated…but seeing foreigners monopolizing the center is a smack in the face if you’ve done a lot of travelling around Mexico. This article covers the issue of overtourism and gentrification in Oaxaca well).
I don’t live in Oaxaca and I’m not an activist. But I am a traveller and I’m always bothered seeing a place lose itself to overtourism. I like nice cafes and restaurants as much as anyone else but there’s a tipping point where you feel a place is too gentrified. And that’s what I feel has happened to Oaxaca.
*Note: up top I mentioned the 445 pesos being charged at the airport to get to the center. That’s highway robbery, I’ve never been charged as much anywhere in Mexico. Instead, take one of the collective minivans outside. If memory serves me, they charge 115 pesos/person and they’ll drop you off right at your front door.
I like Oaxaca. But I don’t love it. I would have been ready to leave after 3 days.
Lissette though likes it a lot more than I do “It’s a place I could come and feel safe if I was by myself. And there are nice restaurants and cafes where I could eat, art galleries that I could visit…”
So I guess even we can’t agree on gentrification…
Summary: Oaxaca should be visited. Don’t get me wrong. But it is in my opinion overrated and I’m a bit bored by all the posts waxing on about Oaxaca, most of them written by the digital nomads I’ve mentioned. Yes, it has great food. But so do places like Puebla, Guadalajara and Mexico City. Yes it’s pretty. But so are Zacatecas, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, and San Cristobal de las Casas (a city which, for me, has many of the charms of Oaxaca but without the masses).
Related: Monte Alban or Mitla?
Related: Why you should visit Zacatecas
Related: 18 Travel Dupes (that I recommend)
Choosing accommodation is always a challenge before you’ve been to a place and gotten a feel for it. We were a few blocks farther out from the Zocolo than many, but after staying a month, we really found we felt safe anywhere we wandered. As much as we enjoyed it (I agree with your sentiments above) I’m not sure I feel the need to return for an extended period again – there are just so many great places in Mexico to explore. But if we did, we would stay much farther away from the center. Just to note, we were there in November, and the Zocolo was hopping with post-Day of the Dead and pre-Christmas activities, lots of parades and and weddings and music almost every night, it was very fun.
Agree about the gentrification of Oaxaca. The centro is basically only for tourists. There are amazing places outside though.
Tourists bring gentrification and displacement. Try not to stay in Airbnbs please!!
Agree with everything except that I wouldn’t just blame Airbnb. They are just the posterchild for short-term renting…truth is that there are so many various platforms for rentals. You’ll find many of the same Airbnb apartments for rent on Booking.com. And even if not online, locals/investors have converted their homes into rentable apartments for tourists/nomads and expats. It’s just too simple to only blame Airbnb, short term renting has turned into a virus.
I meant Airbnb as the representative for this type of accommodation that has such an impact on locals. It is a virus.
You left one of the most important reasons to visit Oaxaca which is to visit the nearby towns to see all the craft and folk art artisans..wood animals, rug and textile weaving, ceramics etc. Visiting Mitla, another archaeological site, and the wondrous Tule tree. Plus the artisan market in town and all the shops showing the wondrous examples of folk from the area.
So many other lovely places in Oaxaca State, OUTSIDE of Centro. Grab a rental car and go off the beaten path.
I think it’s funny when white people complain about other white people being in Mexico
Oh please, at least be original. It like when people say “you can’t complain about too many tourists when you’re one yourself” or “you can’t complain about too many expats when you’re an expat yourself”. Why not? Can’t we all observe and point it out so that others, who may not know, know?
We spent 8 days there recently and had a slightly different experience. We stayed on the south side of town and were surrounded by mostly locals. Yes, as you went uptown we saw more visitors, but there plenty of locals in the streets and I restaurants.
Two places we loved and you didn’t mention were the free textile museum and the free stamp museum.
If you’re going to be outside the center you will have less visitors, there’s no denying that. That’s not the point. The point is that where people WANT to be (which is the center) is no longer affordable for locals because of overtourism and gentrification. Have a look at the Bloomberg article that I included.