Underwhelmed by Cadiz.
For years I’ve heard people talking about Cadiz, comparing it in favourable terms to places like Seville and Granada. They’ll say it’s their favorite city in Andalusia. What makes the city of Cadiz so great? A quick query on AI tells you that Cadiz has “A unique blend of 3,000 years of history, sun-drenched Atlantic beaches, and a vibrant, laid-back Andalusian culture. Unlike larger tourist hubs in Andalusia, Cádiz is known for its gritty charm, authentic local atmosphere, and incredibly fresh seafood”.
Cadiz IS known as the oldest continuously inhabited city in western Europe, having been founded around 1100 BC by the Phoenicians. It later became part of the Roman empire (200 BC to 400 AD), conquered by the Visigoths (400 AD to 711 AD), and under Moorish rule from (711 AD to 1262 AD). But it was later, in the 17th century, that Cadiz had its golden age. The Spanish had discovered the Americas and Cadiz was the home of the Spanish treasure fleet. The city was the main gateway for goods, silver, and gold from the New World.
With mansions and palaces from its golden age, Roman remains, city walls and fortresses, and a huge 17th century cathedral – all with the Atlantic Ocean and white sand beaches as a backdrop – we expected to be impressed by Cadiz.
Choosing El Puerto de Santa Maria as a base instead of Cadiz
We had planned for 2 weeks in the Cadiz área and originally considered the city of Cadiz as our base. After comparing costs (Cadiz is very expensive for a longer stay) and logistics (Cadiz is on a peninsula away from the “mainland”) we decided to base ourselves in El Puerto de Santa Maria instead of Cadiz. It was the right decision.
Why?
Firstly, El Puerto de Santa Maria is right across the bay from Cadiz – an easy and pleasant 30 minute ferry ride that delivers you in the heart of Cadiz. Our stay there was a lot cheaper than it would have been in Cadiz and El Puerto had a relaxed, genuine atmosphere.
Secondly, we had two day trips to Cadiz over our 2 weeks in El Puerto and didn’t love the vibe. What most people don’t realize: the historical city of Cadiz covers a very small, very compact area defined by its geography. It is the most densely populated city in Andalusia with approx. 9000 inhabitants per square km. What that means: when there are festivals (our 1st day trip was during Carnaval) or when summer comes around, there are TONS of people on the street. It is suffocating. So if you don’t like lots of people or, if you don’t like lots of people who are also drunk (as was the case during Carnaval), then you might not love Cadiz. It’s not just festivals and summer, Cadiz is also a huge cruise destination. Imagine a ship dropping 5,000 passengers into the heart of the city, a city that is 2 km long (that’s 1.2 miles) at its widest point? I guess that’s what AI means with “vibrant”
The above explains why prices are high in Cadiz and also explains why Cadiz is, to put it bluntly, dirty. The AI description I referenced up top mentioned “gritty charm”. Well, that’s between-the-lines lingo for “dirty”.
Thirdly. We just weren’t impressed by the highlights.
Cadiz Cathedral has to be among the blandest Cathedrals in Spain. At 12 Euros/pp, it is also one of the most expensive. There are a few extras with it: 1) you can climb the bell tower, 2) it includes entry to the “Museo Catedralico”, the Cathedral’s museum. Mostly ho-hum religious art BUT you do get to see the Roman ruins under the foundations which gives you an idea of what lies underneath the modern city of Cadiz. Overall though, I’d say that Cadiz Cathedral isn’t money or time well spent.
Tavira Tower. I love views and paying 5,50 Euros (we didn’t pay the extra for the Camera obscura) didn’t bother me. Lissette doesn’t agree though, she wasn’t impressed.
Roman Theatre. Steps away from the Cathedral is the 1st century Roman Theatre. It was only discovered in the 1980’s and is only partially excavated: modern apartment blocks rise from its sides. Impressive but a little sad. Great value for money though because it’s free.
Visiting the two castles…
The walk to the Castillo de San Sebastian has to be one the nicest walk in Cadiz. Built in 1706, it is on a small island off the coast which you access from a beach area. You walk on a path built into the sea, waves crashing on either side until you get to the castle. Very dramatic. Don’t expect much from the castle, it’s crumbling and there is security tape preventing you from getting close to the walls. Continuing past (and through) the castle you get to a large fortification and lighthouse. More views looking out into the ocean. But the walk is definitely worth it and I would recommend it to anyone visiting.
Back on dry land, past La Caleta Beach, the Castillo de Santa Catalina was built in the 17th century. Again, don’t expect much.
Municipal Market. A typical Spanish market with lots of stalls selling fish, meat, vegetables. Many little restaurants: incredibly busy during Carnaval with people drinking beer and eating tapas.
We strolled the city’s squares: Plaza de Mina is pretty with huge trees that give it a Savannah-type vibe (Moreton Bay Fig trees, also known as Australian banyans). The Plaza holds the city’s museum (more about that later). Plaza San Antonio is the start of Calle Ancha (one of the most important, most attractive streets in the city). We went to Plaza de Espana (dominated by a large monument to the 1812 constitution), hurried back to the Plaza de la Catedral and Plaza de San Juan de Dios (where you see the large Ayuntamiento ie. town hall) and then to the ferry terminal to catch the ferry back to El Puerto de Santa Maria.
Those two day trips left us a bit indifferent to Cadiz. Underwhelmed. There had to be more, maybe we weren’t getting it. This is a city with over 2,000 years of history.
We had to leave the Cadiz area but would be back in a week. So we decided we’d come back for a few days and explore more of Cadiz. I in particular wanted to visit the Cadiz Museum.
So would it change our minds on the city?
A week later we were back in Cadiz. We stayed at El Armador Casa Palacio by Luxury Suites Cádiz on Calle Ancha. It’s actually a great little hotel and at 71 Euros/night (in late February), a great deal. Just don’t ask the uppity lady at reception for more coffee taps for the Nespresso machine in the room (we were there 2 nights and were given a total of 2 tabs between the two of us). The lady pointed out that the tabs were a “curtesy”. I just about blew a gasket. How fucking cheap can one be? We went to the store and bought a box of Nespresso tabs.
Otherwise though, a great hotel: it has a kitchenette, a bar/table where we could both work on our computers and a very comfortable bed. The room has one of those alcove balconies (which you’ll see on Calle Ancha) and we got a lot of light in the room. There are some nice cafés nearby, lots of restaurants, and a Coviran supermarket 2 steps from the hotel entrance. Recommended.
Back to sightseeing…
Cadiz Museum. Words don’t describe how disappointed I was with this museum. First of all, you might wonder: what kind of museum is this? Is it a history museum, an art museum? Well, it’s a mix of everything: archaeology on the ground floor, fine art on the 1st floor, modern art on the 3rd floor.
You would think that the oldest city in western Europe would have a decent history museum. This isn’t it. There is very little history and what history is written is often as a description to the archaeological artefacts on show. Some of those artefacts are impressive (a Roman-era mosaic, a Phoenician sarcophagus) but there is no history. You won’t come out of there knowing more than when you came in.
The museum is free. Despite that I don’t think it’s worth a visit unless it’s a rainy day and you’re desperate for something to do.
Calle Ancha. Some beautiful buildings on this street. It’s a pedestrianized street that used to be the heart of the city. You’ll find buildings with elegant façades, marble entrances and those alcove balconies I mentioned above. Very pretty.
We walked along the Paseo Santa Barbara (nice views of ocean, fewer tourists in this part of the city), past Parque Genovés and saw the Moorish-inspired Falla theatre (impressive). We walked outside the old city, near the train station, and saw the gates to the city at Plaza de la Constitucion. Our photos are drab because of a rainy day which is unfortunate – the city walls here are very impressive and you can understand the layout of the city: this is a peninsula and this part was the only land entrance. The only other way to access the city is by water, all access points there protected by seawalls, ramparts and fortresses.
Summing up the city of Cadiz
There’s nothing wrong with the city of Cadiz. But after all the fanfare it gets, we expected more. We were underwhelmed. I also think, considering how popular Cadiz is with tourists, that the city could do more. Have a decent city museum for a starter.
I’ll never say that Cadiz isn’t worth visiting but I’d recommend a daytrip (it can be reached from Seville by train in about 90 minutes) or maybe 1 night tops. I think that’s enough time to see Cadiz.
What do you think of Cadiz?
Related: The 20 Best Things to See and Do in Granada (Spain)
Related: Seville (Spain): What to See and how to save money
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