Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. And why you don’t need to take a tour.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour.

People think that you need to book a tour if you want to climb Mosor Mountain. You don’t (especially since you can get here by city bus). Besides which, most organized hikes up Mosor Mountain only make it up as far as the Umberto Girometta Mountain house. The best hiking is done behind that, up the steep slopes of the mountain.

* Note: you don’t have to take a tour but I don’t advise going by yourself. Go with some friends as I did.

The last time I climbed Mosor with friends Vedran and Goran we had explored the two highest peaks of Mosor: Veli Kabal and Vickov Stup. We had stopped at the mountain house (PL. Dom) to eat beans and sausages. This time we took a slightly different route with a different destination in mind: the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter. This shelter (an ex-shipping container) lies on the interior side of Mosor. It has a barbecue pit – besides nature and great views, the goal was to have a few drinks and cook some meat.

Below: Our route (in green). In red is the route taken on our previous hike.

Map-of-Mount-Mosor- hike

They’ve done a great job with signage on Mosor and unless you intentionally stray off the trail you would have a hard time getting lost. Most signage posts always have a sign indicating PL. Dom  – that’s the mountain house. If you ever get lost that’s the best way back.

Starting from the parking lot we made our way towards the mountain house. A few photos:

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. Destination the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter (2)

Above: path from parking lot towards mountain house. That’s Split in the background.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. Destination the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter (3)

Above: you might come across farmers and their goats.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. Destination the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter (4)

Above: the trail. You can also see the Observatory (called “Star Village”) in the distance.

45 minutes later we arrived at the Umberto Girometta Mountain house (PL. Dom). It’s pretty quiet in the morning but when you come here in the afternoon you’ll find quite a lot of people – locals and tourists – having drinks or resting at the outdoor picnic tables

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. Destination the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter (6)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. Destination the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter (7)

Above: the mountain house’s donkey.

After a brief break we continued on. I mentioned that we were going to the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter – well, there’s no sign for this shelter. The way to get there from the mountain house is to first head in the direction of Gajna (about 45 minutes from the mountain house) and then, from there, continue to signs indicating Jabukovac.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (4)

Above: Goran and the sign to Gajna (signpost is located right next to the mountain house).

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (7)

Above: another sign for Gajna…as well as Jabukovac (you’ll be continuing along this trail to get to the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter).

Getting to Gajna, you’ll see a large open meadow. A lot of school groups come up here for picnics and outdoor games. It also means the end to flat surfaces and vegetation – if you continue from here the terrain gets much steeper and rockier.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (8)

Above: Vedran pointing the way to Jabukovac. From here it’s all uphill.
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Views hiking up Mosor:

hiking up mosor
Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (27)

hiking up mosor mountain

Seen from Split, Mosor looks like a large, rocky mountain with bald peaks. After 2 hours of hiking we finally reached the top – just to find ourselves  looking straight down the other side of the mountain. Despite faraway appearances, Mosor is all sharp peaks and ragged edges, there is very little (if any) smoothness to this mountain.

Below: Coming up to the top…and then the view onto the other side.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (9)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (10).

You’re now at the top of the long ridge that connects the 2 highest peaks on Mosor: Veli Kabal (1339 m) and Vickov Stup (1325 m). You can follow the ridge in either direction (it is this ridge we had followed on our previous hike).

This time however, we followed the Jabukovac trail right down the other side of the mountain.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (11)

NOTE: See the snow above? Going over the ridge we were: 1) in the shade 2) facing a cold wind coming from the interior mountains. Coming down this side of the mountain there was ice and snow and we slipped a few times. If doing it in winter (we did this hike in mid-February) be very careful.
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Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (12)Above: After about 30 minutes of very careful walking and climbing the terrain levelled off a bit and we had these great views.

Then we saw our destination: the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (13)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (18)

Above: “Shelter” in Croatian

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (14)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (17)

 

We had brought our own food: chicken, pork, bread, beer and some rakija. We also had matches and some of those white firestarter things you use to get the fire going. Other than that, the barbecue pit has metal grills and there are branches all around the shelter that we used for firewood. The shelter itself has a bunkbed with 2 mattresses, a table, and a wood stove to keep warm in the winter. It even has a few basic cooking utensils that people can use.

A bit about the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter here.

Below: Goran and Vedran cooking

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (15)
Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (16)

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We spent a few hours there eating, drinking and taking some sun. Then we cleaned up our mess and were back on our way up from where we came.
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What’s the most beautiful spot on Mosor? For me it has to be walking the ridge between Veli Kabal and Vickov Stup. On one side you have the Adriatic with all the islands, on the other you have the interior with snowy mountain peaks in the distance (in Bosnia and Herzegovina).

Below: A few feet make all the difference – the warm sun on the Adriatic side, snow on the interior side.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (19)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (20)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (21)

Above: red shelter of Vickov Stup in the distance.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (22)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (23)

Above: Vickov Stup, a shelter from sudden storms on the mountain.

Views coming down the mountain to the parking lot.

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (25)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (28)

Hiking Mosor Mountain – Split, Croatia. You don’t need to take a tour (26)

 

Time it took us to do this hike:

From the Parking lot to the top of Mosor (the ridge): 2.5 hrs.
From the ridge down to the Hrvoje Dujmić shelter: 45 min
Back up to the ridge from the shelter: 40 min
Walk along the ridge to Vickov Stup: 20 min
Vickov Stup back to Mountain House and to Parking: 2 hrs

Total hiking time: 6 hrs, 15 min (not including 2 hrs spent at the shelter).

 

Practical Information

– Getting to Gornje Sitno (10 minutes from parking lot) by bus: Take bus 28 which runs on the large intersection behind Split’s Green market. Schedule here (make sure to arrive early because buses to Gornje Sitno are not frequent). Cost: 17 Kuna, takes about 45 minutes to get to Gornje Sitno.
– Bus Schedule back to Split from Gornje Sitnohere.
– Bring lots of water, something for your head, good shoes, and long pants. Bring a phone should something happen to you up there.
– Keep an eye out for snakes, can be found sunning themselves on rocks (I’ve been up here 3 times and have never seen anything more than a garden-variety snake).
– There are tours offered of Mosor in Split but I haven’t come across any that take you any higher than the Mountain House. I don’t consider that a real hike.

Summary: It is easy getting to the mountain by bus and the signage is good. I’ve highlighted a couple of hikes – take the usual precautions, bring enough water, and come with a couple of friends. You don’t have to book a tour.

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Comments

  1. Those goats are so cute, we’re heading to Croatia this year so would be great to explore this area too!
    Becky Moore recently posted…6 reasons why you’ll fall in love with a Cornwall road trip (inc.video)My Profile

  2. I like the “you would have a hard time getting lost” reassurance and the fact that there’s lots of signage. However, despite the views, I might stop at the Umberto Girometta Mountain House for a cold one and call it good. The going looks tough after that – both uphill and downhill! Great pics – the goat photo is my favorite. They look very curious!
    Anita recently posted…Portugal’s Love Affair With Tiles and the Museu Nacional do AzulejoMy Profile

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      True, it’s a rigorous hike but not technically difficult…as long as someone in shape they can do it. Really is beautiful up there though and the views over the Adriatic quite something.

  3. Frank, another great hike, although it does sound a bit tough I would certainly give it a go. I love hiking and beautiful mountain scenery, but would have to attempt it only if the weather was sunny and not a stormy cloud in sight, would not want to get stuck in that shelter hut 🙁 Beautiful photos, thank you 🙂
    Gilda Baxter recently posted…Discoveries Down Under Part 4 – Sydney And The Blue MountainsMy Profile

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      Yes, one thing you have to always keep in mind here is the “bura”, a very strong wind coming off the mountains. It can get violently windy in Split and I can only imagine what it must be like up on Mosor…
      We arrived in Split in January and it doesn’t (hardly ever) snow in Split. But it does on Mosor – totally crazy! So you always have to check the forecast.
      But on this day we went (mid-February) it was about 18C and perfect hiking weather.

  4. It feels like you’re hiking in Denali (minus the abundant snow). That little shelter is so hidden I bet not too many people know about it. I wonder what it’d be like to spend a night there. Can you spend a night there? I imagine you can take some epic night shots of the sky. We weren’t in Split for very long to even know this place existed…
    HUNG THAI recently posted…Fire and Ice, Northern Lights and everything you need for your first time to IcelandMy Profile

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      Yes, you can actually stay in the shelter. There’s a book in there were people write when they came – we saw that 4 people spent New Year’s here. Can’t imagine what they did 😉 There are other places, like the mountain house, where you can have a more comfortable overnight stay as well. Pretty nice if you like nature and want to be out in it for a weekend.

  5. Great post, I’ve wanted to hike Mosor but didn’t know you could do it without booking some kind of transport from Split. Always love a good hike but often hard getting to one without public transport.
    Love the photos! What a view.

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      Hi Jack,
      Yes, easy to take the bus where the 2 large streets meet behind the green market (across the street you’ll see BIPA).
      Take it early in the morning, it’ll take about 45 min which is not much different than driving there. Tell the driver you are going to Gornje Sitno (I think it is the 2nd to last stop).
      Then catch one of the buses in the late afternoon coming back. Easy, but just make sure you make the schedule because the buses not so frequent.

  6. Looks like a great hike – we would definitely go! But Croatia have to wait…Seems you have settled in pretty well?
    Natascha (WESTWARDS) recently posted…A retro night at the SPICE MOTEL on Okinawa – hotel reviewMy Profile

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      Thanks Natascha. Yes, we always love it here especially Spanky who swears she was here in a previous life.
      I hope you make it one day and maybe we get to meet you both 🙂

  7. Okay..what happened to my comment a few days ago? I think the internet has it in for me! I said l would take it one step further than Anita and actually wait at the bottom, maybe having a drink with Spanky and wait for you to return. No, thank you! :-). I always love your friend’s expressions..haha!
    Kemkem recently posted…Is Leadenhall Market London A Unique And Astonishing Place?My Profile

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      Sometimes that happens to me too Kemkem – leave a comment and never shows up. And you only realize if/when you go back to that post…I don’t know why that happens.
      Vedran is always funny…we call him “Crazy Bastard”.

  8. This is the first time I’m hearing about Mosor mountain, Frank! I would love to hike there one day! So stunning!

    • Frank (bbqboy) says:

      Yes, it’s the mountain that you see in the background of all those photos of Split. Very close to city yet right in nature with few tourists.

  9. Wow, how incredible, I just love the white landscape and that you encountered goats on the hike. I plan to travel to Croatia in the near future and look forward to hiking a few of their amazing trails. Thanks for sharing.
    Bianca recently posted…Easy Hiking Trails in Southern California Near MeMy Profile

  10. it looks very doable and very pleasant. Not to mention stunning views. Not so many trees…. thanks for sharing!
    Andrew Boland recently posted…In China. That Wall Thing. (great!)My Profile

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