Divisadero – the highlight of the Copper Canyon
“Why are you staying over at Divisadero? It’s a train stop, it’s not even a real town”.
The question was posed by the owner of one of those companies that I had contacted about tours through the Copper Canyon (I ended up doing the trip independently which I recommend to anyone).
Spending the night in Divisadero ended up being the highlight of my trip through the Copper Canyon.
It’s true that Divisadero is basically just a train stop. You get off the train and there are some little food and souvenir stalls. Walk through them (it takes about a minute) and you get to a viewpoint overlooking the canyon. The views are incredible. Next to the viewpoint, with its own great views, is the only accommodation in Divisadero – the Hotel Divisadero Barrancas. That’s where I was staying.
When I had planned to see the Copper Canyon I had three things in mind: 1) great views, 2) hiking opportunities, 3) Adventure (including the longest zipline in the world*) at Copper Canyon Adventure Park. I was in Divisadero less than 24 hours but I achieved all my objectives.
* now the 2nd longest zipline in the world
Doing the longest zipline in the world.
Here’s what I did:
A. Hike
From the hotel, there are 2 directions to go: out the main entrance (which will lead you in the direction of Adventure Park) or out the back door. If you go out the back door it will lead you out of the property of the hotel. Stick to your right. It will lead you on a cement path over a ravine and up a little hill. Once you’re up that hill (about 10 minutes since leaving the hotel) you’ll come to a little cement house (it’s actually a little store where you can buy water and snacks). On your right are views over the gorge. You’ll see two paths at this juncture: one that goes up a bit (this leads to some makeshift stalls where Tarahumara Indians sell souvenirs), one goes right along the ridge. Take the one that goes right. Note: the hotel gives a free tour of the area around the hotel. That’s how I knew where to go for my hike.
.
The views over the canyon at this point are phenomenal. You can climb some of the rocks for different vantage points. The Copper Canyon is actually made up of 6 canyons and at this point you are looking into the Urique Canyon, the deepest of the canyons in the Sierra Tarahumara at 1,879 m (6,200 feet) deep. The Canyon is approximately 4 km (2.5 miles) wide at this point.
Sitting there, all by myself without another human in sight, was one of the most incredible experiences I’ve had. It’s hard at first to comprehend the scope of the landscape in front of you. It almost feels like a painting laid out in front of you. At a certain point you realize just how high you are and that it’s very real. I was sitting there on the rock when I suddenly felt the breeze pick up. I have to admit that I had a momentary panic attack. It’s a very easy hike, just be careful of how close you get to the edge and keep in mind how exposed you are to the elements.
B. Wake up to see the Sunrise.
I set my alarm and was sitting on my balcony with a cup of coffee when the sun came up the next morning. Like most people, I don’t like waking up early – but seeing the light falling over the canyon was one of those special moments.
C. Walk to Adventure Park – and do the longest zipline in the world.
It’s about a 30 min walk to Adventure Park from Hotel Divisadero Barrancas. I left at 8:30 (the park opens at 9) with the intention of spending a few hours and being back at the hotel by noon to catch the 1 pm train (Note: yes, that’s enough time to explore Adventure Park)
What I didn’t expect was that most of the walk is along a really nicely built path along the edge of the rim with lots of lookouts like you see below. I really recommend that you walk this path even if not going to Adventure Park.
Ironically, the nice path ends when entering the grounds of Adventure Park. Then you have about 10 minutes of walking along a dirt road to get to where all the facilities are.
.
Adventure Park
There’s lots of fun activities here if you’ve been thinking of doing something extreme.
You can:
– do the High Ropes Course which includes rappelling down a cliff, crossing a rickety suspension bridge while high above the canyon floor, swinging on cables…
– do some extreme bike riding on the paths through the canyon
– rent an ATV and ride around the rim of the canyon
– do the longest zipline in the world (video at the top of this post)
For those less adventurous:
– you can take the teleferico (cable car over the canyon)
– or, if you are like some people I know, you can go to the restaurant and eat while enjoying the views.
When you’ve finished the zipline, you have to walk a path up to the 2nd teleferico station (700 m. It’ll take you about 15 minutes). More great views here:
.
I wish I had time to do more activities but I had to go back to the hotel and take a shower before taking the train that afternoon to Los Mochis.
.
.
Summing it up, I loved my short stay in Divisadero. For me, “visiting Copper Canyon” was as much about experiencing the canyon as it was taking the train (‘El Chepe’ as it is called) through the region. Unlike in Creel, I really feel that I experienced the Copper Canyon in Divisadero.
.
Hotel Divisadero Barrancas
I should mention the hotel because it is the only accommodation in Divisadero.
It’s a beautiful, romantic kind of hotel. It was built in the 1970’s and is an institution. The main building is beautiful and the bar especially is gorgeous with its views. The rooms are large and each has a balcony looking out over the canyon. It’s the kind of place you want to bring your wife or girlfriend.
Having said all that, it could also be a lot better. Service is not very good, food is not good at all (and is overpriced), and there’s a sense that things are being neglected. In my room for example, both nightlights were not functioning. You just get a sense that management just doesn’t care very much. Maybe because it’s the only hotel in town and because it’s nearly always full. Still, for $100 US, it is still good value considering the incredible location and the beautiful, large rooms. When I left I kind of regretted not having stayed a 2nd night.
If you’re thinking of staying at Hotel Divisadero Barrancas, you can book here.
A few helpful links
- ‘El Chepe’ website. They’ve made it complicated in recent years so I’ve updated this post with all the info needed to arrange your train trip.
- Adventure Park Copper Canyon. I’ve mentioned some of the adventure activities they offer – you’ll see details and photos on the site.
- Hotel Divisadero Barrancas website for more photos of this beautiful hotel.
.
Have you been to Divisadero? Let me know what you thought of it.
Related: Why riding El Chepe through Copper Canyon is just mind-blowingly amazing
Related: Chihuahua, Mexico – a place not to avoid
Related: Visiting the Pueblo Magico town of Creel. And what you really have to know
PS. Looking to book flights, hotels, tours, or rent a car? Have a look at our Travel Resources page.
Just applied to join your FB group. In 1926/7 my father cruised the High Sierras for timber, mainly around the Rio Humaya area – to transport logs downriver to Culiacan. Came off – but the MX government ultimately cancelled his permit – didn’t want gringos taking MX resources! Environmentally speaking, I’m pretty glad these days. That was all pack-mules & horses, & he ran into the Christo Rebellion for a while.. Enjoyed seeing all these hi-res pics- though your area must be N. of where he was – similar terrain though.. Glad you had a good trip!
Always like hearing the history, those must have been wild days. Thank you for sharing!
Looks utterly amazing and despite my fear of heights I reckon I’d enjoy the zipline. I was going to ask you about the train ride but I see that you’ve just posted about the train so I’ll be heading over to that post. Looks terrific Frank!
You know, I had almost backed out but then I saw an overweight middle-aged lady doing it – and thought “if she can do it, I have to do it as well”.
Ended up being a piece of cake. And since it’s the world’s longest you kind of have to do it, right?
We also spent several days in Creel and did a couple of hikes where we got some nice views of the area.
Loved the train ride. We only did it from Divisadero to El Fuerte and back but like you we stood most of the time with our heads out the window between the cars! Fantastic scenery. I think in total we most of spent over a week in the Copper Canyon area and that still wasn’t enough time. Can’t wait to go back. If you wanted to see some of the things we did in Creel or after Divisadero then just go forward or backward from the post in my original comment. Glad that you went, I know that you normally go to Mexico at least once a year and it is nice to see that you came up to Copper Canyon, some people just don’t know what they are missing by not making their way up there!
Hi there,
Thanks for this great Blog.
I am travelling in late September and I plan to do exactly as you have done here. I have a few questions, generally around the logistics of the trip.
We plan to take El Chepe in the direction from El Fuerte to Chihuahua. Given this, if the train is on time we would expect to arrive in Divisadero at 14:30 approx. Our plan is to stay one night here, as a result, is this enough time (obviously more would be better, but we are restricted due to flight commitments). The day after we arrive, we would expect to get back on El Chepe the next day @ 14:30 again.
So, given our short stay, our arrival and departure would we have enough time to make the trek that you did (or a shorter version that would allow us similiar views) and to go on the zip-line?
Greatly appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks
Shane
Hi Shane,
Yes, no problem. That’s basically what I did.
I did the hike on the day I arrived (it’s very close by and I went maybe 30 minutes from the hotel) and the next day went to Adventure Park really early – I was back by noon.
You should have no issues with the timing.
Frank
Great – thanks a million Frank!
Shane
I’ve yet to do a zipline ride but wow-oh-wow it looks like fun although I think I’d be screaming along the way! Divisadero obviously needs a warning for those with a fear of heights but your photos show a place that’s uniquely, incredibly beautiful. I put the train ride through the Copper Canyon on our list of must see and dos years ago when I first read about it and I hope someday to make a return trip to Mexico and have an opportunity to follow your footsteps. Absolutely gorgeous!
It was right in your backyard Anita!
I’m sure you’ll be back in Texas one day and you really should visit Copper Canyon. Really was one of the most fantastic travel experiences I’ve had (which I’m covering in my next post). And you know what? Doesn’t take much planning, is easy to do independently, and is not expensive. Great great experience.
We loved Divisadero as well and another small community a little further down the road. We left our motorhome in the parking lot of the hotel you stayed at while we took the train and stayed over night in El Fuerte and then back the next day.
We also stayed the night boondocking at the end of the “runway” in the adventure park for one night, it was so beautiful and peaceful there. Enjoyed the hike along the ridge too and the zipline. we can’t wait to go back and spend more time exploring the canyon.
Thanks Kevin/Ruth for the feedback. How did the two of you like El Fuerte?
Seemed nice enough but we weren’t there long enough, when we arrived it was dark (went did the train trip at the beginning of January)so we walked around and found a place for dinner and admired some of the views in town and then the next day we were up early to catch the train back to Divisadero. Hopefully we will make it to El Fuerte in our motorhome and have more time to spend there.
We loved the train ride and enjoyed our 3 or 4 days in and around Divisadero when we arrived back there. We even went for a great hike way down into the canyon. Next time we go we want to hike down to the town at the bottom and stay a few days and then hike back up .
Good for you, 3 or 4 days! In hindsight I wish I had spent more time there and cut down on my time in Creel (which everyone considers a ‘must see’ but which really doesn’t have any views). A hike into the canyon must be spectacular. Who knows, maybe I make i back one day…
Yes, Divisadero to El Fuerte covers the most impressive stretch of El Chepe and you got to see it twice. Great planning. The whole thing (16 hours from Chihuahua to Los Mochis) was a real journey and I think I spent most of that time with my head out of the window between carriages. I’m so impressed by the whole history behind the train line.
Copper Canyon though was fantastic and I’m so happy I got to see it. Also amazed by how few foreign tourists I saw along the way.
Thanks for taking the time to write about your experience.