What to Do and Where to Stay in Isla Ometepe Nicaragua
Within Lake Nicaragua, which is the largest lake in Central America, lies Isla Ometepe. It is a small island shaped like an hourglass – both sides of the hourglass being volcanoes (Concepcion on one side, Maderas on the other) joined together by a narrow isthmus.
My mom and I stayed at Totoco Ecolodge on the Maderas side of the island. It was phenomenal. The views towards Conception volcano were great in the day and spectacular at sunset. The sunsets at Totoco are one of the most impressive things I have ever seen in all my travels.
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Hiking on Isla Ometepe
One of the tourist activities is hiking up Maderas volcano. I hired a guide (Melvin) through the lodge and we set off very early in the morning. The ascent to the summit is about 6 hours at a fast, but grueling pace. The best part of the hike was seeing the howler monkeys in the first hour while still in the lowlands. After that it is a sweaty, dirty climb up poor trails towards the top. I like a tough hike when it’s rewarded by great views – but in this case there wasn’t much to see, the trees and brush covering up any vantage points. In this regard I was a bit disappointed. The best view I got was when I climbed a tree and took a picture looking down towards the lake. A few photos:
Across the isthmus, you can also climb Concepcion. I’ve read that it is a tough, slippery climb up a steep, shale-covered slope. You have to be in good shape. Unlike Maderas there is no vegetation – just fantastic views in every direction. It is on my agenda for the next time in these parts.
Besides the hike, our time was spent laying out by the swimming pool and enjoying the nature. The views as the light changes is spectacular. I would recommend this place to anyone. The food at Totoco was fantastic. Bring earplugs; the NOISE at night from all the bugs and animals is unbelievable. There is one bird, a small grey bird that seems to only appear at night, that constantly hung out right next to our lodge calling out what sounded like like ‘f”-word all night. I’m not kidding. Then, when the noise from the night animals finally starts to die down close to dawn, the howler monkeys start up. There is no peace and quiet in the jungle.
Practical Information
Getting There: Most people take a bus from Granada to Rivas (90 minutes) and then take a taxi from there to the San Jorge ferry terminal (which is 4 km away). From there you take a ferry to the island. An alternative: I was travelling with my mother and booked private transport with Oro Travel. They are excellent and relatively inexpensive. They took us from Granada straight to the ferry terminal.
Want to visit Ometepe on a tour from Granada? This Full-day trip from Granada covers all the highlights of Isla Ometepe
Where to stay? As mentioned, Totoco Ecolodge was great.
Final thoughts: A few Nicaraguans I spoke to expressed their frustration that Nicaragua was portrayed as a dangerous country, especially in the US (see the Bureau of Consular affairs website). In actual fact, Nicaragua is known as the safest country in Central America, safer even than Costa Rica. I never felt in danger. And the flip side of few tourists is that locals aren’t overwhelmed by foreigners and are so much friendlier because of that. And I always say; in the end, it’s the people that make a difference between liking or disliking a place. Based on that, I would definitely come back to Nicaragua.
Related: Nicaragua Travel Guide: Where to Go and What to See
Related: Why we think Costa Rica is Overrated
Related: On Travel to Mexico – why I’m sick of the ignorance
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Ometepe was definitely a highlight of my (first) trip to Nicaragua. I really liked the hot springs there.
I didn’t hike either volcano, and your post doesn’t make me regret it too much! I’ve heard Concepcion is brutal as well, with the opposite problem of there being no shade. But, the views must be cool.
When we left, we took the over night ferry to the other side, to San Carlos, which was kind of a trip in that it makes you realize how damn big Lago Nicaragua really is!
Thanks Sonya – that’s exactly what I heard about Conception. Plus that there’s a lot of shale, so hard to get good footing. I’m told it’s a tough hike up.
Loved your post. We were there in 2011.Stayed at what was then called Se Porvenir, now Totoco lodge. Just wanted to add that the fantastic food is all locally grown and raised, organically.The staff is the friendliest we encountered in Nicaragua. Those photos bring back fond memories of our stay there.One place we would revisit.
Hi Maurice – thanks for your comment and the background on the place. Yeah, they were great, very friendly. Glad I brought back memories 🙂
Great photos!! I love isla ometepe and lake nicaragua, SO beautiful. And I totally agree, I try to tell everyone who asks me about safety in C. America that Nicaragua is NOT as dangerous as the media portrays it. I traveled even in Managua, Masaya and Grenada and never had a problem. Nicaraguans are such good people and they have been working very hard the past few years to increase their tourism. My host family in Nicaragua were the sweetest people ever with big big hearts. Glad you had a great time, I’ll have to check this place out next time I do my border run!
Thank you for your comments, know you guys are pretty much experts on Central America and much appreciate your input.