Highlights and Lowlights of Dubrovnik
Updated in October 2024
Dubrovnik, otherwise known as ‘the Pearl of the Adriatic’ is at the top of every traveller’s Croatia wish list. It is spectacular, incredibly photogenic, and has one activity which ranks up there as one of our all-time favorite travel experiences. You can’t skip Dubrovnik if coming to Croatia. But is it our favorite Croatian destination? No. I’ll explain why.
In this post I’ll cover what we like about Dubrovnik as well as cover a few aspects we liked less (I cover that at the bottom). I’ll tell you what to see and do, how much time to allocate to your visit, and how to best spend your money. Because a visit here can make you poor very quickly. I’ve also got a lot of photos below. You tend to go photo-crazy in Dubrovnik.
Accommodation recommendations: Casa Arancia is good value (but you have to go up some steps to get there). Hotel Excelsior is an excellent higher-end hotel.
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The Ultimate Dubrovnik Activity – A Walk around the City Walls
One activity ranks above anything else you can do in Dubrovnik: a walk around the city walls. It is not cheap (35 Euros now in 2024!*) but you’ll be blown away by the views of the city. It is spectacular and you can easily spend 2-3 hours doing the circuitous route around the top of the city. Note that the ticket also includes a visit to St. Lawrence fortress.
* the first time we went to Dubrovnik in 2015 it cost 100 Kunas (about 13 Euros). We came back in 2020 and it cost 200 Kunas (26 Euros)…now it’s 35 Euros..
A few photos:
I would plan all activities around the ‘Wall Walk’. It is one of the most impressive and fun excursions we’ve had anywhere and although not cheap worth every penny.
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A Walking Tour of Dubrovnik
Start outside the Pile Gate and walk to the St. Lawrence Fortress. You’ll get great views of the Old City from there. Note: the St. Lawrence Fortress is included in the ticket that you pay for the Walls.
Below: A few photos from the St. Lawrence Fortress.
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After you’ve seen the St. Lawrence Fortress, walk back through the Pile Gate and see, in order: Big Onofrio’s fountain, St. Saviour Church, and the Franciscan Monastery.
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Next to St. Saviour Church is a Franciscan Monastery which also has a Pharmacy museum (it has the 3rd oldest functioning pharmacy in the world). You have to pay to get into the gates of the monastery – but if you just stick your head in like we did you can see one of the most beautiful cloisters (i.e. open gallery) in Dubrovnik.
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The Stradun (below left) is the main street in Old Dubrovnik and runs 300 meters from the inner Pile Gate (Western Gate) and inner Ploce Gate (Eastern Gate). If you walk to the end of it you’ll see more of the city’s highlights including the Bell Tower (below right), the Sponza Palace, St. Blasius Church and the Rector’s Palace.
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The Dubrovnik Cathedral is another of the city’s highlights. Legend is that it was financed by Richard the Lionhearted after he was shipwrecked on nearby Lokrum Island following his return from the Crusades in 1192. It holds the bones of Dubronik’s patron saint Saint Blasius. It has been destroyed many times by earthquakes, including the famous 1667 quake. Lots of detailed history here.
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Close to Dubrovnik Cathedral a large Baroque staircase leads to the impressive St. Ignatius Church. We were actually more impressed with the interior of this church than with the interior of the Cathedral.
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The buildings and churches I’ve mentioned above are the historical and archaeological highlights of Dubrovnik. But half of the pleasure of Dubrovnik is wandering around the Old Town. You’ll see lots of little streets and many more churches and historical buildings.
Below: sights you’ll see walking around town.
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Sdr Hill. to go or not to go
Going up Srd Hill in a cable car is one of the most popular tourist activities in Dubrovnik. Is it worth it? A round trip ticket up in the cable car costs 20 Euros for a return ticket. The views are great, especially if you come at sunset.
We did this in 2015 when it cost 108 Kuna (14 Euros). At 20 Euros we don’t think taking the cable car is worth it – there’s not much up there and you’ll be ready to come down after 30 minutes.
Just know that you can hike up and save yourself a lot of money!
The above are the highlights of Dubrovnik and can easily be managed in 2 full days (It can even be crammed into one day if you get up early and go full force).
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What we don’t like about Dubrovnik
Dubruvnik is a tourist town and all the things we don’t like about the town are a by product of this.
– It’s expensive. I don’t think I’ve ever paid 7 Euros for a beer anywhere else in Europe.
– It lacks the lived-in charm of a place like Split. Old Dubrovnik officially has 2000 residents but most rent out their apartments to tourists.
– The tourist hordes can be overwhelming, even in May (when we were there). We’ve been told that it is crazy June through August.
– Locals are not as friendly as other Croatian towns and cities. This can be blamed on tourist-fatigue.
– If you are renting an apartment and living in the center, you may struggle finding a grocery store, bakery, or any other kind of store supplied with other everyday items (you’ll find lots of crappy souvenir stores and gelato stands though).
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Despite the above, make sure that you see Dubrovnik if visiting Croatia. It is an essential experience when in the region.
Practical information
– Getting There. Dubrovnik is a 4 hour bus ride from Split. The bus station in Dubrovnik is impractical, being situated a 10 minute ride out of the Old Town. Taxis will overcharge, expect to be quoted about 12 Euro into town. Or you can take a bus right outside the station on the main street – buses 1a, 1b, and 3 go to the Pile Gate and cost about 2 Euros. Air: Dubrovnik has a rather large airport (code DBV) due to it’s popularity.
– Accommodation. On our 1st visit, we rented an Airbnb apartment in Dubrovnik. While not cheap (150 Euros/night with fees in May) it was perfectly located and a beautiful apartment. On our 2nd visit we stayed at Casa Arancia which was very good value (the equivalent of 75 Euros in December).
A few recommendations if looking for something higher end: The Pucic Palace (one of the few hotels in the center, beautiful old world hotel), Hotel Excelsior (gorgeous modern hotel, a quick walk outside the old town looking over the sea), Apartment Cativla (right in the old town, gets great reviews, better value). Tip: stay in (or very close to) the old town and avoid Dubrovnik June to August.
– Food. we saved money by cooking (restaurants in Dubrovnik are very expensive). There’s a Konzum grocery store tucked away near the Cathedral.
– Savings. You can save money if you buy the Dubrovnik Pass as a saving to some museums, galleries, and public transportation. It also includes the city walls. It’s worth it.
– Organized Tours. Recommended: An inexpensive walking tour of the city. Many people base themselves in Dubrovnik and take day trips. At the top of my recommendations is a day tour to Kotor, Montenegro (have a look at this post). This tour will take you to both Kotor and Perast. A 2nd recommended tour is to Mostar and the Kravica Waterfalls (both situated in Bosnia & Herzegovina). This tour will take you there.
– Thinking of renting a car? Not useful in Dubrovnik itself but the best way to explore the region. We use Booking.com.
Note: See my follow up post: Why you should visit Dubrovnik in Winter
Related: Is Croatia (still) worth visiting?
Related: The Best of Croatia (and around) Itinerary
Related: The Best Day Trips from Split
PS. Looking to book flights, hotels, tours, or rent a car? Have a look at our Travel Resources page.
That’s the beauty of Croatia …..so much diversity. The whole country could almost be declared a National Park its that beautiful. I have visited three times in recent years from Australia and have now covered over half the country. There is a special place 30 mins from the Plitvice Park where I recommend everybody stay when visiting Plitvice. Its called Rastoke . Google it a true hidden treasure- a town built on waterfalls’”.
I don’t know if you visited the islands but this is a must in Croatia. The towns of Bol and Pucisca on the Island of Brac, Komiza & Vis towns and Stiniva Cove on the Island of Vis (my hidden treasure and the Blue cave)and of course the most famous of the Islands Hvar & Korcula are a must. Mljet is also beautiful.
But there is a region I think the two of you would absolutely love and that is the area around the Town of Sibenik. Places like Vodice at night, Primosten,Skradin (entry to Krka falls- one of Bill Gates favourite), Tribunj and the beautiful Island of Murter which is connected by one of the smallest Bridges in Croatia and is a great base to the Kornati archipilego and Telascica National Park. The water here is the clearest in Croatia and it is actually the densest concentration of islands in the country. Oh and uou must have a meal at the Etno Village in Solaris….. one word awesome!!!
The Northern Island of Rab are also stunning. Places like Rab, Mali Losinj & Krk are awesome places. (Mali Losinj a favourite). Then there is Istria with places like Rovinj, Porec, Opatilja & Lovran. On top of that an Istrian Interior similar to Tuscany . Town like Labin, Motovun, Groznjan, Vodnjan & Bale are beautiful and unique in their own way.(Groznjan & Motovun my favs) but love that Labin overlooks the coast and is above another beautiful coastal town in Rabac.
In all Croatia has so much for a small country, you’d seriously have to do 4 trips here for at least two months in all to see half of it and soak in the beauty. Oh and one more hidden treasure Varazdin in the North ; ). Please Google Image these places and youll be back in Croatia in no time.
Happy travelling
So true! I have visited Dubrovnik and I just loved the city itself! The little streets, the red roofs, it’s all amazing and so beautiful but the prices are ridiculous! It must have been so amazing around 10 years ago… But you can find beautiful little villages in Albania with all the charms and amazing prices and locals 🙂 But shhh, don’t tell anyone! Montenegro and Bosnia are not that off the beaten path anymore…
Thanks Tom. Yes, we’ve had Albania (as well as Romania and Bulgaria) in mind. I’m sure we’ll get there in the near future!
Thanks for bringing back some great memories. You are right about the crowds and the costs. Regarding Srd Mountain, we took the easy way up, but friends walked up and said it was quite doable. No crowds on the path up either!