But when it comes to Dubrovnik I’ll go even further – come in winter. We came here 5 years ago in May and while we were impressed with Dubrovnik, we were also happy to leave. Our post at the time: Highlights and Lowlights of Dubrovnik. This time, coming in January, we came away feeling a lot different about Dubrovnik.
Accommodation: we stayed at Casa Arancia on this visit which is good value. But there are stairs involved in getting to the building which is about 5 minutes up from the Stradun.
Have a look at the video. You might get an idea of why we enjoyed it this time around.
A 2nd video on Dubrovnik, this one featuring the views from the walls
Why you should visit Dubrovnik in Winter
Few tourists!!
The best reason. Dubrovnik is an over-touristed city. It’s become such a problem that UNESCO threatened to take away the city’s World Heritage listing. To curb over-tourism, the city has limited tourism to 2 cruise ships a day with a maximum of 5,000 visitors a day. It’s less than what it used to be but it’s still a LOT of people (Dubrovnik’s old town is really not very big).
Look at the video and the photos in this post. There were very few tourists in January (and probably 80% of those were Koreans). It made walking around an absolute joy and we could really appreciate all the little alleys and the details on the buildings.
The weather
I never get these people walking through the Old Town in summer, sightseeing in 40C temps under a scorching sun. It’s crazy. When it’s 40C you should be at the beach. Dubrovnik is not a beach destination (well, it is if you want it to be. But I wouldn’t pay Dubrovnik prices if that’s the goal, I’d go somewhere else that’s more affordable). If you’re smart, you’ve come here to see the magnificence of its history and architecture – and if you’re smart you know that the best time to do it is not when it’s 40C. Dubrovnik shouldn’t be a summer destination.
We were walking around on January 8th in perfect 15C weather (60 Fahrenheit). We walked hours and hours. It dropped to about 5C (40 Fahrenheit) at night. In short, it was pretty much the perfect weather for sightseeing. Having lived in Croatia a year and having spent 3 winters in Croatia, this is normal weather this time of year.
Related: Split or Dubrovnik?
Cost
We stayed 3 nights at Casa Arancia. Very nice for our needs. We paid a total of 75 Euros /night. If you were going to book the same room in July it would cost you $270 Euros a night.
That’s one thing I always warn people thinking of visiting Croatia in summer: prices triple or even quadruple. It’s crazy.
Dubrovnik is always going to be an expensive place. But if you’re thinking of visiting, you’ll save a lot of money doing it in winter.
Walking the Walls
It’s what everyone does when coming to Dubrovnik. Really, walking the walls is fabulous. Fabulous that is when you don’t have people walking up your ass or yelling in your ear. Then you might as well be in line at the cash register at Walmart on boxing day. Walking the walls on a perfect sunny day with few people was absolutely fantastic.
Note: 5 years ago they were charging 100 kuna per person (ie. $15 USD) to climb the walls. Coming back in January of 2020 prices had doubled to 200 kuna ($30 USD) per person. Ouch. 2024 update: Now 35 Euros per person. Ouch.
Things are still open
Dubrovnik has tons of restaurants, cafés and stores. TONS. And while many close during winter, many remain open. You won’t have any issues finding a place to eat or drink and (again) you won’t be battling the crowds. And if you’re buying your food at the grocery store as we do (we had a kitchen in our apartment) you won’t be faced with crowds. It’s amazing that Konzum is the ONLY grocery store in the old town. I can’t imagine what it’s like trying to get in there to get groceries in the summer.
Note: eating out in Dubrovnik is robbery. Random menus we looked at: 18 euros for an Octopus salad as a starter. Main courses from in the 25 – 30 Euro range. Paying a lot for food is one thing, but I’ve never heard anyone saying they’ve eaten great food in Dubrovnik. It’s just standard tourist fare.
Dubovnik is about art, culture, architecture and history. It’s not about boat cruises, beaches or kayaking (there are a lot better places for that all over Croatia where you won’t be paying over $200/night for accommodation). So if you decide to come to Dubrovnik do it with the right reasons. And go in winter. You may actually love it as much as we did this time around.
Tours that might interest you in Dubrovnik
What are your experiences – good and bad – in Dubrovnik?
Related: Bbqboy’s Guide to Croatia
Related: Why Kotor (Montenegro) impressed us more than Dubrovnik
Related: The Most Beautiful City in the World? Our candidates…and winner
PS. Looking to book flights, hotels, tours, or rent a car? Have a look at our Travel Resources page.
Trishia Jacobs-Carney
Thanks so much for all this information, videos and advice! I guess it’s because we’re both “northerners” that you speak my language and think like I do!ha!:) Some folks feel 60 degrees is freezing and I’m like, “No, if I’m walking and have on thin layers, I’ll be comfortable.” I’m in what I call my Goldilock’s years. I like everything to be ‘just right.’ And ‘day’ trips that involve 4 or more hours of traveling? There’s a big difference between looking for bragging rights or checking destinations off on a bucket list versus really immersing yourself in a place, getting to experience the difference rhythms of life. Even something as simple as seeing a place in the daytime AND at nighttime can give you a whole new perspective. I have to limit myself on visiting your blog. So this is it for today, but I’ll be back!:) Awaiting anxiously to here about your new home…..!!
Frank (bbqboy)
We think exactly the same way Trishia. Travel can be exhausting, especially if you do it the Rick Steve’s way (love his stuff, but he’ll visit 10 cities in 2 weeks). Not our style, we prefer at least a couple of days somewhere. As you say, seeing a place during the day and night gives you more of a feel for a place.
Larry Post
In Summer stay in Cavtat And visit Dubrovnik. I disagree about the food. Excellent fare can easily be found. Kayaking around Dubrovnik’s walls and Lokrum island is unlike anywhere. Same for swimming off Lokrum and Dubrovnik area beaches. Personally, I can’t go to Croatia and not swim in the Adriatic Sea.
Anita Oliver
I especially like travelling during the off season to avoid both the crowds and hiked up prices. (It’s much more pleasant to stay home in the summer, shop early and bypass the well-known tourist areas.) You can always put on a warm coat which beats sweating buckets in a crowded, over-touristed area. January looks like a great time for a visit!
Frank (bbqboy)
Very much agree Andy. Unless one really loves spending time at the beach. But if you’re going for sightseeing then I think one should avoid summer.
Gilda Baxter
Frank, I couldn’t agree more. You got the perfect time to visit Dubrovnik, sunny but cooler …ideal. I can’t believe the prices for eating out… ouch. Almost as bad as Norway prices. Loved the video.
Frank (bbqboy)
Gilda, this is our increased frustration with Croatia over the last few years. This year we saw crazy pricing in Split as well.
Locals can’t afford that kind of pricing. Even us as Canadians we find it crazy – we can go to a great restaurant in Montreal and pay less. And the thing is that I’ve rarely had good restaurant food in Croatia, it’s tourist food at tourist prices.
I know you’re planning a Croatia trip Gilda. Really, I recommend getting a place with a little kitchen where you can make your own meals. You’ll save a lot of money. Or eat pizza – you’ll always find good pizza restaurants in Croatia that are reasonably priced (if a Croatian goes to a restaurant it’ll usually be a pizza place)
Paul Menconi
Great video, Frank! Thanks. We’ve spent a good bit of time in Dubrovnik and won’t be back soon, but your video brought back some good memories. And, OMG, empty streets! I liked the bright sun and deep shadows from that low sun. And your point is very good–come in the winter, avoid the crowds!
I also watched the video of Split. Also good memories. I see you’re doing more video stuff now. I’ve wanted to, but it’s a lot more work! You’ve inspired me…
Paul
Frank (bbqboy)
Thanks Paul!
Just short videos to capture what a photo doesn’t always. Lissette takes the photos and I have my gopro 🙂