I’m going to get into trouble for this post.
I’ve previously written about Mexico City (Part 1) and how impressed I was. It’s a HUGE city and really can only be explored bit by bit. Last time we (my Mom and I) stayed in the historic center and explored some of the neighborhoods using the Hop On/Hop Off bus (which is a great way for the first timer to get a feel for Mexico City).
This time we stayed in an Airbnb apartment outside the Historic Center and were a little more adventurous getting around. We also visited the famous Mesoamerican ruins of Teotihuacan, a place I was dying to see after having previously visited Monte Alban (outside Oaxaca) and Cholula (outside Puebla). As you can probably guess by the title of this post, the experience was a letdown. I’ll explain that in this post as well as cover where you should go instead to get a more rewarding Teotihuacan experience. I’ll also add a few things (including 3 museums) to my list of things to see and do in Mexico City.
Located 48 km from Mexico City, Teotihuacan was the largest Mesoamerican city in the Americas. It was inhabited between 100 BC and 700 AD and at it’s peak (around 450 AD) it covered an area of about 30 square km and had a population of approximately 150,000. The city was connected by a large avenue known as the Avenue of the Dead (above photo) which takes you from the Temple of Quetzalcoatl on one end, to the Temple of the Sun (the largest temple) about two-thirds of the way through, to the Temple of the Moon at the other end. These 3 Temples evoke the mysticism of Mesoamerican culture: the worshipping of the gods, the huge pyramids built to appease them, and grisly human (and animal) sacrifice. The history is fascinating. Unfortunately the site isn’t.
Mom “Totally uninspiring”.
Me “Big piles of rocks”.
Mom lasted about 25 minutes, enough to see the Temple of Quetzalcoatl and walk about 200 m down the Avenue of the Dead. “I think I’ll just go sit somewhere and have a coffee” said she. I continued on by myself down the cemented road, passing stray dogs and vendors selling tacky trinkets, until I reached the Temple of the Sun. I climbed up, enjoyed the views, and decided to go find Mom. I had also had enough.
These are the best of a whole bunch of very uninspiring photos.
Above: the Temple of Quetzalcoatl
Above: Temple of the Sun
Above: Views of the Avenue of the Dead and Temple of the Moon from the top of the Temple of the Sun.
Above: On the cemented Avenue of the Dead looking towards the Temple of the Moon. Blah, never mind.
Besides finding it just plain uninspiring, I have a few other gripes about Teotihuacan. Unlike the sites of Cholula and Monte Alban (which I found incredible) there are vendors all over Teotihuacan. If they’re not pushing you to buy tacky plastic souvenirs they’re making jaguar sounds with some kind of mouth piece they’re also trying to sell. You’re walking around and you hear jaguar sounds all over the place. Frigin Annoying. Mom: “no benches, no shade, not even a nice cafe. The river passing through the site smells like raw sewage. Can you imagine what these people living here hundreds of years ago would say about our civilization?”.
I browsed the internet and have yet to find anyone who has been disappointed visiting Teotihuacan. It gets great reviews on Trip Advisor. But I somehow find it impossible to believe that we are the only people to find Teotihuacan disappointing*….
* See Tony’s comment below in the comments section. He enjoyed Teotihuacan and has some good tips on how to best explore the site.
Below: short video.
Want to really get a great understanding of Teotihuacan in a more stimulating setting? See the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City instead (below).
National Museum of Anthropology
Mexico City’s Anthropology Museum is a world class museum, the best Anthropology Museum I’ve ever visited. It details the history of Mexico, from the first people who migrated to the area, describing the evolution of humans through the ages and regions of Mexico. It also covers all the major archeaological sites in Mexico: the Mayan temples in the Yucatan and Chiapas (Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Yaxchilan, Tulum, Palenque), the Zapotec and Mixtec sites in the Central Valley of Oaxaca (including Monte Alban), the civilizations in Northern and Western Mexico…and has a whole section on Teotihuacan which includes artifacts that you won’t find at Teotihuacan itself. Through the use of large replicas (see the replica Temple of Quetzalcoatl below) and descriptive signage it gives you great insights on what life was like in the city. It is excellent.
Above: It is hard to imagine that the valley on which Mexico City was built used to be a lake. Today it is a city of over 21 Million people.
Above: God of Water
Above: Outdoor Mayan Temple.
Above: various sculptures. How many cartoon characters do you think the one on the right inspired?
You can spend all day at the Anthropology Museum and not see everything. I would actually come here again – there is so much to see and the few photos I have above don’t give it justice. I think a visit is essential to understanding Mexico.
Frida Kahlo Museum
Frida Kahlo is a very popular figure in Mexico despite having having died over 70 years ago. This museum, the house where she was born and spent much of her life, is one of Mexico City’s most popular museums and it is dedicated to her life and work.
Above: entrance to the museum.
Frida had a painful life: at 6 years old she contracted polio which made one leg shorter and skinnier than the other. At 18 she was in a bus which had an accident with a trolley. She had serious injuries including a broken spinal column, a broken collarbone, broken ribs, 11 fractures to her right leg and a crushed and dislocated right foot. A handrail also pierced her abdomen, rendering her incapable of ever having children. She was in constant pain in her life (she had 35 surgeries, mainly on her back) and it is reflected in her work. A few days before dying in 1954 (at the age of 47) she wrote in her diary “I hope the exit is joyful – and I hope to never return”.
Below: some of Frida’s work.
Below: corsets that Frida would wear under her dressed to help support her spine.
Below: Frida’s workshop.
Don’t come to the Frida museum for art – it doesn’t contain her best paintings. But anyone interested in Frida or her life will enjoy this museum.
Postal Museum (Palacio Postal)
We discovered this museum entirely by accident when walking around Mexico City’s historical center. Finished in 1907, it was built by an Italian architect and is a mix of architectural styles and materials (from both Europe and Mexico). It’s a gorgeous building. Best of all, entrance is free.
Sights, colors and food in Mexico City
There’s lots to see in Mexico City and we enjoyed walking around and seeing the sights. Here are a few photos from the Historical Center.
Above: Views of the Latinoamericana tower – the best place for views in Mexico City which I covered in my last post.
Above: Palacio de Bellas Artes (home to ballet and theatre).
Above: Typical buildings you’ll see in the historic center.
A few odd and colorful sights we encountered walking around.
Above: stands outside the Museum of Anthropology selling drinks and snacks.
Above: Taking a nap with an improvised ‘roof’ in case of rain.
Above: Dog walkers. I counted each handler had about 8 – 10 dogs and they were incredibly well behaved. Is it a wonder Cesar Milan comes from Mexico? It blew my mind seeing this.
We took the metro to get around this time and never had any issues. Easily the quickest and most cost effective way to get around.
What’s Mexico without the food? Here are a few photos of Taquerias, Tacos, and Huevos Mexicana.
- We stayed in this 2-bedroom apartment in the Roma Norte neighborhood of Mexico City. Recommended. The neighborhood is full of leafy, shady streets, cafes and restaurants of all kinds. Kind of reminds me of the Plateau Mont-Royal in Montreal. I could live here.
- To get to Teotihuacan. Take the metro (5 pesos – dirt cheap!) to the Autobuses del Norte bus station. When you walk in, go to your left. At the end there’s a “Autobuses Teotihuacan” counter where you’ll pay 80 pesos to get to Teotihuacan. Buses leave every 15 min and it takes roughly an hour to get there. The best thing about getting there this way (and not paying for an expensive tour bus) is that you have flexibility about when you come back.
- To get the the National Museum of Anthropology. Located in Chapultepec Park, huge green space where you’ll find many of Mexico City’s museums. Chapultepec metro is not too far away if you chose to take the metro. If taking the Hop On/Hop off bus, there’s a stop here (taking the Hop On/Hop Off something I recommend highly in Mexico City).
- To get to the Frida Museum. It’s a bit outside the center so we took the metro to the Coyoacan metro station. From there it was a 15 minute walk to the house in a residential neighborhood. You’ll see quite a lot of signs pointing you the right way.
- The postal Museum. Across from the Museo Nacional De Arte, a block from Palacio de Bellas Artes (In the Historical Center).
- Taxis in Mexico City are numerous and very inexpensive. Traffic can be very bad however and I suggest taking the metro if you can.
My mom and I both love Mexico City and never get bored when visiting.
1) Would you go to Mexico City or does the city’s reputation still make you nervous?
2) Have you been? If so what was your experience?
3) Anyone else have favorite spots in Mexico City?
Tell me what you think!
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