Why you should visit Mostar
Mostar is a place different than any I’ve visited in Europe. Everyone says that Istanbul is where East meets West, but the same can be said for Mostar. Walk through the Old Town, see the architecture and the things for sale, and you feel like you could be somewhere in the Middle East. Except that the people are light-skinned and Slavic. You feel a weird disconnect, especially if just arriving from the very Catholic, Mediterranean coast (which is only an hour away).
In the 15th Century the Ottoman Empire (based in Constantinople, modern day Istanbul) conquered much of Central Europe including what was then the Kingdom of Bosnia. Mostar prospered during this time. The buildings and streets of the Old Town were built, as was Stari Most (the Old Bridge) which was erected in 1566 under the orders of Suleiman the Magnificent, the Ottoman ruler. To this day, it stands as one of the most important structures of the Ottoman era and is Bosnia’s most recognizable architectural monument. It, and the cobbled-stone street leading onto the bridge on either side, are where most of today’s tourists flock.
Accommodation: Apartments Solis, Apartments Villa Mike or Muslibegovic’s House (which I cover in more detail below). You get great value in Mostar.
Stari Most is considered one of the greatest architectural works of its time and endured from the year it was constructed in 1566 to 1993 when Bosnian Croats destroyed it in their siege of Mostar. It was painstakingly reconstructed after the Bosnian War and officially re-opened in 2004. It is a beautiful bridge. It is also honestly the most impractical bridge we’ve ever crossed being both very steep and incredibly slippery. I wonder how many people have cracked their faces trying to cross this bridge.
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The Old Town is quite small and you can easily see it in a few hours. Most visitors to Mostar come here on day trips from Dubrovnik or even Split and see nothing else but this part of town. It actually gets eerily quiet in the evening and even on a Saturday night you’ll find most stores closed by 8pm.
Where to stay in Mostar
Accommodation: Mostar is inexpensive. Recommendations: Apartments Solis and Apartments Villa Mike. For something special stay in the Muslibegovic’s House (photos below). It is the finest Ottoman residential building from the time with 4 floors containing beautiful wooden carved ceilings, traditional carpets, and fine Ottoman furniture. It is today both a museum and an upscale hotel. A beautiful building and even if you don’t spend the night it is worth visiting.
The Karadjoz-bey Mosque is also worth visiting. It is considered the most beautiful mosque in all of Herzegovina and has the highest minaret (which can be climbed – note that the spiral staircase is very tight). The man tending the mosque was very friendly and informative. For those who are worried about entering a mosque: we were told that it is not a ‘hard’ form of Islam in Bosnia. Lissette wasn’t made to wear a shawl and the man happily invited us to walk in the area where only the men are supposed to be allowed to pray. A good experience and if you can only visit one mosque in Mostar make it this one.
Essential in our opinion is a tour of modern Mostar for a complete understanding of what is one of the most tragic episodes in modern history. While it may not be as pretty, understanding the history and legacy of the Bosnian War was a highlight for us.
After seeing all the above, we completed our 2nd day in Mostar revisiting the Old Town. Some more images:
Practical Information:
Summarizing what to see/do in Mostar: visit the Old Town, cross Stari Most, have lunch and do some shopping. Visit Muslibegovica House and Karadjoz-Bey Mosque. See the Museum of Herzegovina if you can for information on the Bosnian War.
Day Trips outside Mostar: Kravice waterfall is 40km outside Mostar and very impressive. This tour takes you there and also takes you to Počitelj which is a historical site close to the Croatia border (about half an hour from Mostar).
Car Rental. Renting a car in Mostar is a good idea, there’s lots to see in the area. We use Booking.com, they give you the best rates on car rentals.
Getting to Mostar by bus: Easy to do but there are a few twists. The bus we took from Split took about 4 hours. Once the bus turns inland at the mouth of the Neretva River, it takes about 30 minutes to get to the Bosnian border. Make sure you have your passport and don’t be surprised when they take it away from you for processing. You don’t get off the bus, an inspector comes on and takes your passport.
Once through customs, the bus will take you to a town about 15 minutes away where you will switch buses. This 2nd bus will take you to Mostar.
By Train. Sarajevo and Mostar are joined by a great train line. More: Taking the train from Sarajevo to Mostar. Sarajevo is a fascinating destination so if you have the time you should go.
Getting to Mostar with an Organized Tour: This full-day tour from Dubrovnik takes you to to Mostar and Kravice waterfall. Recommended.
Eating: There are lots of restaurants in the Old Town catering to tourists. Just outside the old town is the National Restaurant. It’s recommended by locals (also the #1 rated restaurant on Trip Advisor).
Update: We revisited Mostar a few years later: Why Mostar needs more than just a day trip
Related: A week in Sarajevo
Related: Taking the train from Sarajevo to Mostar
Related: Things that seem weird when you go to Europe
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Thanks so much Sean! If you have any questions let me know.
Thank you Emina 🙂
Love the photos. I have lived in Mostar 10 years. It is a beautiful part of the world. Next time, look me up. I can help you explore places like Blagaj that is about 15 minutes outside of Mostar and is another incredible gem.
Thank you Carolyn, that’s very nice of you! 🙂
as we would say, nema na cemu (you’re welcome)
Interesting to see what we might have seen had we been able to stay longer. Given the opportunity, I would have spent more than mid-day in Mostar.
We really think it’s worth a few days and even having stayed 2 days we wish we had stayed a 3rd to see those nearby attractions. We’ll be back to Bosnia…