“I don’t like Croatia. It’s too expensive and the people aren’t friendly. I can get a more authentic experience in Bosnia & Herzegovina and Serbia and it won’t cost me a kidney”.
“The average salary in Croatia is the equivalent to about 1000 Euros/mo. So why are tourist prices here equivalent to parts of Western Europe? It’s bullshit”.
These are not recent comments made to us. These were made 6 years ago when we were living in Croatia.
At the time, we would kind of nod, sympathetic to what they were saying. We had spent a lot of time in Croatia and had actually applied for temporary residency (we lived all of 2017 and part of 2018 in Split). We knew what they were talking about but at the same time we almost felt like we had to defend Croatia…
Now, in 2023, we get people writing us, angry that we’ve written about Croatia.
“How can you even recommend travelling to Croatia? The average meal when we were there was higher than in Paris! The whole country is a rip off!”
“The problem with Croatians is that they can’t even cheat tourists with charm. They treat tourists like we’re stupid and lucky to be in their country. I would never go back”.
We’ve seen Croatia change before our eyes over the years.
I remember when we first arrived in Split in April of 2015. It was cold and windy, the mountains lining the coast were coated with snow. There were very few tourists (the ones we did see were mostly Korean). Back then the local men would wear their “Balkan uniforms” (ie. their sweatpants/tracksuits). We would notice over the next few years that the style would fall out of favour which made us sad because it was, for us, synonymous with the Balkans. We fell in love with Croatia on that first visit. The people were friendly and welcoming, the geography was stupendous and we loved Split’s old town. Split is still, for us, one of the most stunning places in the world.
On that first visit, we paid a total of $1,870 Canadian for 2 months (April and May) in a beautiful two-bedroom apartment (found on Airbnb) in the heart of the old town. That was roughly 635 Euros per month.
In 2016 we were back in Croatia, travelling around Istria during the month of May before arriving in Split for June and July. It was high season and we paid significantly more: 1200 Euros for June, 1400 Euros for July in the same apartment that we had stayed in the previous year. But it was summer which meant we could enjoy Split and visit all the islands by catamaran. And while there were tourists, we never found it too overwhelming. Dubrovnik had sold out years ago – but Split was still a place where locals lived in the old town and went about their everyday lives.
In January of 2017 we were back for a 3rd time. We had done a lot of travelling, staying 3 months in South Africa and 5 weeks in Japan. We were burnt out and it crossed our minds that we wanted to take a break from travelling. So one of the first things we did when in Split was go to a lawyer and talking about the options for a longer stay.
Getting a 1 year temporary stay was surprisingly easy (I wrote about that here and here). It required us to have a lease. That wasn’t hard either – we found a pretty apartment steps away from Bačvice beach within 3 weeks of starting our search. Rent? We paid 600 Euros at the time. Utilities including wifi and cable came out to 120 Euros. No safety deposit was required.
Note: I’m mentioning the above because the market has changed significantly in Split since 2017. I’m sure people reading the above today will be shocked.
It was while living in Split that we started to notice changes. There were definitely more tourists in 2017 than in the previous years. But it wasn’t just that there were more, it’s that there were more young tourists who would come just to party and get drunk. For the first time, we saw signs coming up in Split’s old town warning tourists about dressing appropriately and not drinking in public. I wrote a post about all that here. At the time, over tourism wasn’t yet an issue but the signs were there: local businesses moving out of the old town, quality of food/service going down and prices going up, a growing resentment of tourists…
In early 2018 we had to make a decision. We had to renew our temporary stay but the rules for a 2nd year were much more complicated. While we were weighing our options, our landlord told us that his aunt (who owned the apartment) had died and that he would sell the apartment. He told us he could sell it for 300,000 Euros which struck us as delusional. Just the year before we had sold our condominium in Montreal for about the same price – but that was Montreal, not Split, and our condo was a big and modern. Who the heck would pay 300K Euros for an apartment in Split? He gave us a month’s notice. Without a lease we couldn’t renew our temporary stay. We took it all as a sign and decided to leave Croatia.
*We know from our Croatian friends that the apartment sat empty for at least 6 months after we left. Did he eventually sell it at the price he wanted? We’d love to know.
Related to the above: The story of our friend Samir who left Croatia for Turkey because of crazy pricing in Split: Why this couple left Croatia to live in Turkey
Our experience left us with a bad taste in our mouth. But we still loved Split and we came back for a couple of stays: for a month in January of 2019 and another two months in December of the same year. We went back to booking apartments on Airbnb and paid the equivalent of 915 Euros/month in the off season.
But as much as we loved Split on those last visits, we saw that the city had changed. Even in the off-season, there were more foreigners. Most of them were young, some of them most likely digital nomads using Split as a base (this was before the Croatia introduced the Digital Visa in January of 2021). We saw them at the local gym where we had been regular members for years.
Restaurant prices had gone through the roof and the quality had turned to crap. There were a lot more restaurants than there used to be but most were closed because it was low season. Split’s old town was dead. A dead old town in the off season is always a bad sign.
We noticed that locals weren’t as friendly as they had used to be. We were in DM when we saw some kids stealing products and running out the store, the cashier yelling after them in Croatian. It was something we would never have imagined happening in Croatia.
As I say, it felt like Croatia (more specifically Split) had changed before our eyes.
In recent years I’ve heard the stories from Croatia: tourists being charged 150 Euros to be taken from Split to the airport, Uber drivers demanding additional money and screaming at passengers, Digital Nomads being asked for 2,000 Euros/month for a 1 bedroom apartment and foreigners being asked for a 3,000 Euro deposit to rent an apartment.
Those are extreme cases. But every day I hear about high costs, poor quality and rude service.
A few years ago I wrote about Croatians. In the article, I cover what we’ve always appreciated about Croatians. That includes their openness to foreigners, their honesty and the safety you feel when in Croatia. They’re of course not perfect. But Croatia was always the place where we felt we wouldn’t get screwed over or lied to.
So what’s happened?
I’ll tell you what I think based on what we observed during our time in Croatia.
Promotion & Regulations. It starts at the government level with Croatia promoting what I like to call “crap tourism” through things like Ultra festivals. It brings young people who spend little money and come to Croatia just to get drunk and have sex. I found this about the “bad tourists” that visit Croatia. But you know what? Instead of pointing your fingers at the tourists, don’t promote this type of tourism. Spain has clamped down on it, why doesn’t Croatia? Croatian marketing seems to be about bringing in quantity, not quality tourists. Start by getting rid of Ultra. I’ve been saying the same for the last 5 years. It doesn’t just give tourism a bad name, it changes a place and angers locals.
Does Croatia regulate illegal taxis? (my example above about the 150 Euro ride). Was anything done about that Uber driver who demanded cash and locked his passengers in the car? Do the government and police do anything to protect tourists? Or do they turn a blind eye?
Why the Digital Nomad Visa? Does it benefit Croatia in any way? Or has it just contributed to the pressure on home prices?
Greed. 5 years ago it cost 100 Kuna (about 15 USD) to climb the walls of Dubrovnik. Today it costs 35 Euros (38 USD). The last time we were in Dubrovnik in pint of beer cost the equivalent of 6 USD, an appetizer at a restaurant 15 USD, a main course 30 USD. From what I’m hearing, prices aren’t that much different now in Split.
Why these prices? Well, because they can.
I’ve seen it first hand, even from Croatian friends who run Airbnbs: a laissez-faire attitude, gouging a tourist for whatever they can while not giving them quality. Why bother? Lots of other tourists from where those came from…
Again, it didn’t used to be this way. I still remember our first Airbnb in 2015, arriving to a mother and son who greeted us with hugs, beer in the fridge, a hot casserole in the oven and a tray of cake on the table. It was the warmest greeting we had had anywhere.
“Croatia is the best”. I mention the changes we’ve seen in the way tourists/foreigners have been treated over the last 5 years. Croatians have adopted the mentality that their country is “so beautiful, so special” that they no longer have to make an effort. We’ve seen it with our Croatian friends, a sense that no place can possibly be as good as Croatia (they don’t travel by the way, so I’m not sure how that’s seeped into the mentality). Don’t get me wrong, there’s lots of great things about Croatia…but there are many other great places as well.
One thing I’ve learned is that tourism is fickle. You might be the flavour of the year, but that can change. And let’s be honest: Croatia would be a basket case if it wasn’t for tourism.
Long term, tourism has to be sustainable. If a place starts getting a reputation as overpriced and unfriendly towards tourists people eventually catch on.
So back to the question at the top: Is Croatia (still) worth visiting?
Croatia is still special and still worth visiting. We’ll always have a special place in our hearts for Croatia.
But I’ll say this: Croatia is not what it used to be.
Related: What are Croatians like? The Good and the Bad
Related: The Best of Croatia (and around) Itinerary
Related: Tourism…and when the locals hate you
I’ve only been to Dubrovnik and Mljet, in 2018. While I didn’t find it bad at all, I honestly felt that there was nothing of character in Dubrovnik. Every place I visited was bland and generic, and it didn’t even give me the vibe to come back again. It felt like an old town similar to dozens of others that I’ve visited. Mljet was far better in my opinion, with stunning nature and clean air and waters, but again, nothing I hadn’t seen in Italy, Greece or Turkey before. Obviously there are many more Croatian cities that I haven’t visited but what I’m trying to say is, from what I’ve seen, there’s really nothing special that would distinguish Croatia in my eyes compared to the other Mediterranean countries.. So I’m not sure how the high prices are going to work for them when you have Amalfi Coast, the Balearics, Sardinia, the French riviera and the Greek islands to compete with..
I’m Croatian from Split and your comment about crap tourism is spot on. I honestly don’t want any young woke Westerners or “digital nomads” over here demanding our country change according to their liking. However our government sees it differently and the people vote for the same globalists time and time again. Like the old saying goes “You get what you vote for.”
As a Croatian living in Croatia I must say that a holiday in Croatia is over the budget for most Croatians. Yes, things are overpriced, there is no real tourism strategy. But this is not the case for whole of the country. Istria promotes family tourism, villas in the inland, luxury etc. There are more affordable options in continental Croatia as well. but tourism has destroyed Split and Dubrovnik, literally, a tourist broke off a piece of old, historical fountain in Dubrovnik a couple of years ago. And there are almost no Croatians working anymore as waiters, cooks, hotel staff etc. All working abroad for better salaries. I think less people will visit Croatia but that is perhaps good because that might make the government and local tourism boards change their ways. as for locals, yes, some want to rip off tourists, but there are still a lot of friendly, normal people
In Rovinj prices in general went up 30% during winter 2022/23 due to EUR/inflation.
At most restaurants you pay a too high price for the food and wine. And quite often the chef don’t know how to cook.
But to avoid this problem you should plan your dinners, book table in advance and don’t expect to be able to find a good restaurant within 200 meters walking distance. The good restaurants can’t afford to be located in the high streets.
very interesting post Frank. its not the only country where prices have been jacked up like no one would notice, from Egypt to Bulgaria. and two tiered pricing for tourists versus locals has hit crazy levels in some places.
to travel the Balkans back in 2004 was so much fun and really enjoyable. you would be greeted by families looking to rent a room out at bus stations and you never paid more than 10-15 Euros. i noticed earlier this year prices have really gone up. I guess that’s what was bound to happen. i wonder if there would be a correction some point in the future. Will the tourism ‘boom’ subside due to people getting ripped off? Doesnt change the attraction of the place.
When tourists start talking about paychecks in Croatia and how it is expensive, did you ever think twice to check and ask people who live there, let’s say in stores where you buy your every-day stuff, what salary they have, and that prices you see and complain about in Croatia are almost the same in all parts of Croatia? If you are from Dalmatia, thinking that we all live from tourism is not correct; we pay the same price in stores, restaurants, and marketplaces all year and survive, and we can complain because we didn’t come here on vacation; we live here, and hearing tourists cry about how it’s expensive with your salary, how do we feel when you spit on our country? For me, those kinds of people can avoid our country because Croatia isn’t only seaside, and the rest of the country is okay without tourists. Like I said, survival is our thing, and with those prices and low salaries, we don’t need you to rub it on our noses.
I know what it’s like for Croatians. Go to a restaurant and you’ll see them sucking on the same coffee/beer for 2 hours because they don’t have the money to pay for another. You’ll never see the average Croatian eating out, unless it’s for a pizza. We have Croatian friends, we totally get it.
Still, tourists will go where they get value for their money. Nobody wants to be ripped off. So don’t get angry at tourists (Ps nobody is spitting on your country or rubbing it in your noses), instead get upset at your politicians and the business owners who are more interested in setting high prices targeted at tourists (but affecting everyone) so they can take 6 months of the year off work.
Like i wrote prices are same in all country even on winter its not cause of tourists we went from Croatian kuna to Euro and prices are doubled on everything that is what making me mad how its said, and i don’t agree with prices for renting apartment they are to high and yes they want to earn for all year in few months that is wrong,for that price u get nothing except 1square of sea and bed to lay down that is sad even for me and i live in Šibenik.
and sorry for bad English
Thank you Zveki. I know the switch from Kuna to the Euro have made life miserable for locals. I’m sorry to hear this, I remember hearing that the impact would be “minimal”. Politicians.
I was in Croatia a month this year and before in 2015 and in 2013. In 2013 I was really impressed. I went there because my friend who came to study in Prague invited for a couple of weeks to visit her family. People were really nice in Croatia that time. Btw, there are no even universities in Croatia in this region, mostly young people are leaving the country to study abroad. 2 years after me and my mom were shocked by prices. We went there directly from Rome. And yeah in the capital of Italy prices were the same as there BUT quality and service MUCH better. 2023… we are living in Crete with my boyfriend now and I visited around 50 countries in the world. Croatia in my list is among that countries which you have to visit at least once, but most probably you won’t be dreaming to go back after. Greece is in eurozone many years already, beaches are fantastic, food – omg Cretan food is the best in Europe by my opinion. People are incredible. So why I will go to Croatia where there is no normal beach almost, super overcrowded, overpriced and service is like we are disturbing them instead of bringing money to economy. My boyfriend wanted to go and we went there. Dubrovnik, Split, Omis, Zadar and Sibenik this year. What can I say, places were beautiful but travelling is not only about the place by itself. It is also about people you meet, experiences you have and emotions after. For Czech Republic Croatia was always a super popular destination to travel by car with a family. Not anymore. I see already a big change. With different low cost companies from which you can get a cheap flight and travel in Spain, Greece or Italy – people would prefer to go there instead of Croatia. Just to compare. Greece 1 month of rent the whole house, 15 min. from the beautiful beach -1000 euro. Amazing dinner for 2 persons-50/60 euro (Greek salad, water, 2 main dishes, 1 litre of wine, dessert, raki- last two are in the house), same as in Prague today or even cheaper. In Croatia we paid 100/120. Food was awful, service was the same. We had a feeling that it is a “disposable tourism” there. People thinking about get your money here and now, not even trying to make it good, that you will like it & come back. Here in Crete, people already know what we are gonna order when we are going back to our favourite places. After all – world is big, if Croatia continues like that one day the tourism magic will be over. For sure. People will go back, tell their relatives and friends what experience they had and one day it will a country with bad reputation to go.
I totally agree with you Mila! Thank you.
Yes but when you say Croatia the author, like many amatour tourists, means Dalmatia Croatia is comprised of 5 different regions and in the summer Dalmatia is very popular (Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Korčula, the usual tourist places).
Many in Croatia expect that the mass increase in prices (no its no inflation) will have a big negative effect on tourism next year as many tourists will cross out Croatia. We’ll see.
It is true that Croatians are lazy, thats why tourists have to leave negative reviews more. The truth is many tourists are on vacation and have a general positive attitude. Croats won’t change unless they start to lose money and they will scratch their heads then why
We’ve been to all regions of Croatia Filip. There’s a reason people want to go to Dalmatia and that’s because it is the most impressive part of the country. So of course it is more touristy and more expensive. The question is: is it still worth it? Is it TOO expensive and does the quality of what you get warrant the cost?
As usual Frank, objective view of tourism in Croatia. Thanks for mentioning my story and how we left Split last year, after 5 years living there.
Our Turkiye project went totally south too, but that is long story and wounds are still fresh.
In a meantime Croatia was accepted to Schongen Zone and that was excuse for new climb in prices, especially in high tourist zones. As usual, by comments locals don’t like when foreigners are stating the obvious about their model of tourism, but that is pretty much all they do. The tourism model, where your season is just summer and in barely three months of hard work, you accumulate enough money to live next nine months, is archaic and backwards. For me that means, send your money, you don’t even have to come over.
Many of my local friends, are telling me that swiching to Euro brought just more misery and price hikes, not only in restaurants and caffe’s, but in regular stores, making lives of people that are not tourism bound, almost impossible. Of course, people that rent their properties, live nicely and have excuse to raise their prices exponencialy, since they can.
That is receipt for disaster, foreigners are not stupid Cash cows, many are going elsewhere, Spain and Italy, Greece, Turkiye are definetely more affordable. I hope, that young Croats will see the potential of their country and expand the tourism to whole year and instead of going out of Croatia to find a job(half million in last 10 years), stay home and make a decent living in their beautiful country.
That’s right, Croatia is no good, everyone should stay away. Please and thank you.
I am being sarcastic, of course. Croatia may not be what it used to be, but it’s amazing.
We have visited four times in the last 3 years, covering Zagreb, Istria, the Dalmatian coast. We’ve found our (second) favorite place in the world, and will return for at least a month in 2024, and are talking to our host about 2025 as well.
The sea and the climate are great, but the people really make it special. As we got off the ferry this year, we’d walked maybe 50 meters before a shirtless, bearded guy jumped up from his table of friends, left his beer, and came to say “Welcome back!” It was Pierro, the local merchant whom we visited with nearly every day of our last two visits. We had a similar reaction at the greenmarket (Carla and Anita) and the pastry shop (Besa).
Yes, Dubrovnik and Split are touristy. So is Paris, so is Prague, so is Santorini. My advice to travelers – if you go for the hype location, expect to be a transaction. Instead, find a less touristed place, and put in some effort. Be a repeat customer, be friendly and learn a few local words. If you do, you are far more likely to have a wonderful experience.
Frank, thanks for the (continued) thoughtful posts.
Mark
Thanks for taking time to leave a comment Mark!
Oh no! Just when Croatia joins the Schengen zone, making things a little easier for us to visit without multiple visas 🙁
It’d recommend what I’ve always told everyone Claudine – don’t go in summer when it’s crowded, expensive and too hot. Go in shoulder seasons. And if you don’t like beaches and just going to sightsee, consider winter. It’s still a beautiful place.
Yes, we still will go one day. We can only go during shoulder seasons so that’s good. Swimming or lounging on beaches is not our thing.