Changing my mind about San Miguel de Allende
A couple of years ago I visited San Miguel de Allende. I wrote a post on my visit at the time, saying that it was a pretty place, that it was well equipped as a Western retirement spot, but that I had found San Miguel de Allende overly ‘gringorized’ and as being “Mexico-lite”.
A few people weren’t happy with me saying that.
Coming back recently I have to admit I really loved my time there. What changed? A couple of things, most not really not having to do with San Miguel itself.
After a year of full-time travel, coming to San Miguel to visit my mom was a break. It’s a pretty place, has great restaurants, and, as I’ve said before, great infrastructure for the expat. It was easy and fun and is definitely not a difficult destination. I stand by my “Mexico-lite” comment…the difference this time is that’s exactly what I needed.
So the real difference to me really enjoying San Miguel was my perspective.
The other thing that changed was the time of year I visited. When I visited two years ago I came in March. That’s when all the expats are in San Miguel escaping winter in the Northern Hemisphere. This time I came in July. I saw less expats, less foreign tourists, and more locals as well as Mexican tourists (who come here to escape the heat in other parts of Mexico). It didn’t feel overly gringorized.
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When you take away over-gringorization there’s not much that you can’t love about San Miguel. Colourful streets, beautiful monuments and churches, friendly locals, fantastic food (I always love coming back to Mexico for the food), and great weather. San Miguel is always cool in the shade, never humid (owing to its altitude). And the foreigner-effect does have its benefits: you’ll find all the things you would at home. My mom has an organic store/restaurant right across the street. A block down there’s a gym where expats do aerobics every morning to the beat of Latin (not Mexican) pop. San Miguel has a world class library with books in English, French and Germany (and probably more languages). You can attend concerts, take classes of any kind, or become a painter like every 2nd expat who seems to settle there. It’s a place that seems to inspire people.
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I think every expat I’ve spoken to seems to have a love/hate relationship with San Miguel. They love everything listed above. But at some point they get fed up with all the other foreigners who show up for the same things. Then they talk about moving somewhere else in Mexico, somewhere a little less ‘discovered’. But it’s usually just talk, because despite the downside there are so many great things about living in San Miguel.
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I spent a week in San Miguel exploring the markets, walking the hills around town, seeing the botanical gardens (worth a visit), and drinking margaritas with my mom. And I loved it. San Miguel de Allende has won me over. For now.
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Practical Information:
– Bus. San Miguel de Allende is about 5 hours by bus from Mexico City. You can take the bus from the Mexico City airport direct to Queretaro (about 3 ½ hours by Primera Plus bus lines). From there you can take a bus to San Miguel which takes about 1 ½ hours. I’ve written about it before – buses in Mexico are excellent, the best I’ve seen anywhere. Taking Primera Plus or ETN is transportation luxury at its best.
Update: this post was written way back in 2015. Since then I’ve been back to San Miguel every year and have gotten to know the city well. Below are some of my posts on SMA covering various aspects of the city
The Best Hotels in San Miguel de Allende (for all budgets)
10 things to Do in San Miguel de Allende
The Most Beautiful Churches of San Miguel de Allende (Mexico)
What’s it like living in San Miguel de Allende?
A Photographic Walking Tour of San Miguel de Allende
The Best Cafes of San Miguel de Allende
The Miradors of San Miguel de Allende
Ever been to San Miguel de Allende? What do you think of it?
Related: 10 things to See and Do in San Miguel de Allende
Related: Guanajuato or Queretaro?
Related: A roadtrip through Mexico’s most beautiful towns and cities
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Hi Frank and all, I have been in SMA several months a year for 21 years and have lived here full time for 7 years. I appreciate all the perspectives and opinions and thought I’d add my 2-cents worth. First, I’d say yes, it is great in so many ways, conveniences, cultural opportunities, learning opportunities, super-friendly helpful people, extremely interesting folks of both cultures, creative vibe, weather, central location in MX from which to explore on the excellent bus system, lots of organic food stores, lack of rancor in differences. Bottom line, this more gentle culture suits some people, but not all. Second bottom line is this: your experience depends almost entirely on how you choose to live. My first 5 permanent years, I lived in deepest Centro and loved it. Sat in the jardin early morning and evening to watch the happy, loving families having a great time, walked in Allende’s footsteps every time I entered my historic abode. I attended every single festival to take photos, solemn ones, silly ones (parade of children dressed as insects, etc.), walked everywhere and had a ball. (p.s. Centro is flooded with MX tourists on the weekends; not dominantly expats). Not a mixed neighborhood but fun. Now I intentionally live in a VERY mixed neighborhood, a true community of people that are happily mixing it up. In this tiny mountain town, there are over 120 non-profits doing everything from eyes, teeth, food, micro loans, water conservation, education. I support 127 Mentors (half of them MX) who are coaching poor, bright teenagers through university. With 274 graduates and 137 first-generation current university students, we are gradually changing the SMA region. So, my questions of expats and possible expats: How much do you want to learn? Spanish? art? history? culture? How much do you want to integrate? Have you discovered your “your purpose” (lots of opportunity to serve here)? How many deep fascinating friends have you made (again, both cultures)? Are you open to new experiences, new vistas, new knowledge and feelings? You can tell, I love it here, feel more at home here than anywhere and hope to finish out my run here.
Great comment Nora, thank you! You might enjoy this interview we recently did on an expat who moved to SMA about 3 years ago. While newer he shares some of the same passion you do for the city and the people.
I visited this past March. While I enjoyed it, I much prefer Cuenca, Ecuador. Lower cost of living by far, including ample affordable housing, more green space and nature, better climate and not as hot, much better access to all kinds of groceries, Mercado, malls, etc, much better public transportation that includes a tram, cabs, and busses, very walkable including around historic Centro and the 4 river trails, linear parks etc. Also uses the dollar which is great, plus much easier retirement and other visa options. Mexico as a whole has continually increased financial requirements, making it difficult to get a temp then permanent visa. Ecuador Tourist visa process is also generous with initial 90 days with ability to extend for another 90 days. Also, better and more accessible healthcare with many facilities in Cuenca. It’s a no brainer for me.
Oops, people come here for PEACE, but NOT quiet! Bells, fireworks, parades, bands, barking dogs. We long-timers love the bells and know that the fireworks are opening a path between heaven and this plane so a soul can depart or a blessing can descend on a marriage, birth or birthday. Or it could be solely celebratory. One learns not to be bothered or moves away. JUST FYI.
I spent a week in SMA in 1998. A friend and I had a lovely B&B very near the center and we did much walking and enjoying ourselves. We became quite friendly with the expat B&B owner who was living there also and waiting to move into an apartment for herself outside of SMA. One day she asked if we’d like to join her when she drove out to see how her apartment building was coming along. Of course we said yes and we were anxious to see what it was like where she’d be living. I can barely describe how immensely different the countryside was once we left SMA. The poverty was heart rending … house after house that looked they were barely held together and yards with junk and children and animals of all breeds crowded together. It didn’t seem to bother our hostess and when we got to the apartment building we saw that it was like so many that we have here in the U.S. High walls and an
entry that is closed to all but owners or others that are carefully questioned before entry. She was thrilled to see that her apartment was almost ready. It was actually the penthouse and when we got up there she showed us the lovely view ! Of course that was actually from just one angle … the rest showed the REAL coutryside and it broke my heart. To be honest it completely ruined my trip to SMA.
Thanks for that Virginia, very interesting. I don’t know if there is the kind of poverty you’re describing in the area anymore (maybe others more familiar with the surroundings can provide some insight?).
I previously wrote about Oaxaca where I felt the same way about poverty. I’m afraid most people don’t really seem to care about the poverty surrounding them…
I have lived in San Miguel for many years and there is a name for what you saw in the countryside. It’s called the real Mexico. I love San Miguel and thoroughly enjoy living here, but it is not the real Mexico.
Your first and second blog are the perfect example of everything that is wrong about travel bloggers. You come to a place for a quickie experience and then hack on the people and or place. You don’t know a thing about it and only write about your narcissistic experience based on how you happen to feel that week.
So, you felt better the second trip? Good for you. Try really understanding a place instead of thinking anyone cares about what you think.
I lived there for most of nine years as a American expat and actually there for a real job (in Queretaro). I know, that’s unusual, but it afforded me an opportunity to view the area from a perspective that a blogger can never understand. Yes, there are many drop out gringos that have nothing good to say because the think the door should have been closed when they arrived. But overall, there are many expats that integrate into life with the locals, as well as the many other people from around the world.
It truly is a special place, but bloggers never understand – they are a scourge on any “it spot” of the moment.
Glad to hear about your life/work experience in Mexico – many expats are retirees and have a different viewpoint and experience.
As far as the rest: my mother lives in SMA (10+ years) and I’ve been many times now. And as I write, I enjoy SMA. But I stand by what I say, it’s “mexico-lite” and not typical of Mexican towns. There are many expats that don’t like that (when people live somewhere too long they get blinders on) and many others who’ll see it for what it is (“Mexico-lite” or “gringolandia”).
“Bloggers” is for you a derogatory term, just as for some the word “expat” is a derogatory term. I just travel and I write about my experiences/opinions. What I appreciate much more that being called names is when someone actually sits down and writes a well-thought out comment on what I don’t “understand” about a place. So you don’t agree about my view? Then tell me why I’ve got it wrong.
I moved from the US as a single retired woman four years ago, to Ajijic Mexico. The first two years were great, no major issues or problems. However, I have found the last two years to be a nightmare as far a housing goes. I do not want nor plan to purchase a home. I rent. Now to find a newer or well maintained older home/apartment, the prices have more than doubled. I just checked a block from me a new building with two smallish bedroom units and the price is $25,000 pesos which includes no utilities. Do then now think this is Manhattan? I feel even sorrier for the local folks, many who have had to move their families in with relatives while both spouses working two jobs. The landlords, locals or gringos have now adopted the attitude, you don’t like it; move. You find out after the first rain, a few days after moving in defects that were hidden and covered up and they tell you too bad. They have collected three months rent, 1st, last and security deposit so it you move out they keep the money and move the next unsuspecting victim in. It has become what appears to be a scam. Then you move for your health, because I’m talking roofs that are shot and leaking. water all in the walls that you can’t see till the mold quickly starts growing on the interior walls, black water out of the faucets even for bathing you have to use purchased bottle water; then try to move. They black list you on all the sites. I don’t know if San Miguel, as I have been researching moving there is a better option or this is how it has gotten in the more gringo areas of Mexico. Just an FYI to those who might be looking in this area and for any advice or a person someone may know in San Miguel for me to work with on finding a place and if these types of things are going on there also.
I’m sorry to hear your story Katheryn. I think it’s like everywhere, there are some bad landlords who take advantage and that’s always worse in places where expats retire. It’s not the case with my mom in San Miguel de Allende – she has a nice (older) place but none of the issues you state. Her landlord is a nice older man who seems more interested in continuity than in gouging tenants for every last cent. Always good to know someone or get advice from people on places.
Best of luck with your next apartment.
Thank you for your input! Appreciated. If you know of a place, please let me know. Stay well all!
My wife and I visited San Miguel in 2014 and instantly fell in love with it. We talk often about living there for a few months out of the year, and now that I’m retiring in a couple months, the talk is getting more serious.
I’d love to share some photos I took during our trip, but your commenting system won’t allow me to post a URL.
Cheers – Joe
Thanks Joe.
My mom lives in San Miguel and really likes it. There are a few things she’s not crazy about – principal among them the small sidewalks that make walking difficult. It would be great if they could have a couple of pedestrian-only streets in the downtown core.
But otherwise the weather great, people friendly and lots for her to do.
I’m planning to visit again in November, my 6th time there.
Hope you enjoy life in SMA!
Hope you make a good choice. It is getting really awful here. I had my bank card, bank in US, and they issued a new one. I had to wait almost a week and I’m in a locked gated place. My card came today and they didn’t ring my buzzer or call me as was on the instructions, and I found out an hour after it was delivered that a, “Jose”, signed for it and said he would give it to me. Just also found out my neighbor upstairs admitted to and was convicted of murder and bank fraud. Served 11 years and moved here, and opened a bitcoin institution attached to my small building. He also got was advertising himself as an attorney for expats and taking their money. Punishment here; none and he still has his place. I am in a place where there are only nine units and found out what is going on here. Terrible, but I’m stuck at the moment. The owner has a real operation running out of here and he knows I know so I have been harassed constantly. I was threatened and the police are around the corner. I went and filed a complaint also sent all to different agencies here in Mexico as well as US so if I disappear at least there would be some leads. That’s how bad it is. I hear there is much of this going on but people are afraid to speak up. They started harassing me the first week I was here and told me if I didn’t like it,…leave. Sure, after they took three months rent up front and your moving costs etc. I have no reason nor want to go back to the US. Lots of thinking to do. I hope anyone thinking about moving to the Lake Chapala area are very diligent when looking for a place. They hide the defects the kind that can and will make you sick, black water out of faucets or some days none, black mold growing on the interior walls, raining in your house with constant ceilings that don’t dry from roof leaks all over. Sad. I hope that San Miguel has more landlords that care about their properties. Good luck to both of us!
I spent 31 days in August 2016 in a rental apartment. I loved it. I loved the colors of San Miguel. I went in a hot air balloon ride. I travelled by bus to Guanajuato, Querétaro, and Delores Hildalgo. I went by taxi to La Cieneguita to see Chapel of Jimmy Ray art gallery. I visited Atotonilco and Mineral de Pozos. I am a hobby photography, and I loved taking pictures. I also went on three Tastes of San Miguel food tours which were delightful. I did it all and saw much more than some ex-pats that live in San Miguel. I am in San Miguel for 3 1/2 weeks in July 2017. I love it, but I do not believe I could ever live here. I just cannot stand the crowds of people and the primitive plumbing and the uber primitive sidewalks. It’s beautiful, but I would never move here from Arizona.
Mexico definitely the place for taking photos!
Agree with you especially on the sidewalks – I was in SMA just a month ago and was thinking exactly the same thing!
Sue, I Iived and taught English in Cuenca, Ecuador from Sept. 2015-Sept.2016. Cuenca is another U.N. World Heritage city.It’s 8,200 feet above sea level in the Andes Mountains. Very pretty, friendly people, cheaper than the U.S. and Canada, plus thousands of expats. I lived in the older and cheaper part of Cuenca–where the real Cuencanos live. I can relate to your comments, especially about the primitive sidewalks. (In Cuenca there were also crumbling buildings, dog pooh and male urine on the streets. I was told that Ecuadorian males are not considered to be “real men” unless they pee on the sidewalks.) But I did enjoy visiting friends in the new city with all of the conveniences for the many expats and wealthy Ecuadorians. One reason why I didn’t stay in Cuenca was that being a “Gringa” I got tired of being seen and treated as a walking cash machine. (There are ‘gringo prices’ and regular prices.) I actually had one taxi driver pull over and tell me to get out because I wouldn’t agree up front to overpay him. Has anyone had any experiences similar to these in San Miguel Allende?
Hi Carol. For my part, I haven’t heard any similar experiences from my mom who lives in San Miguel. In fact I don’t bother confirming the amount when I get in a cab to get downtown from the bus station – I know the price from having being countless times with my mom. Might be different though if a tourist arrives and asks for the price, I wouldn’t put it past any taxi driver in that situation to ask for more…
We left San Miguel after two years for the reason you describe and moved to first Cuernavaca, and then Mexico City. It was easier to live in San Miguel. But it wasn’t like Mexico. Training wheels for Mexico. It’s a fantastic place to visit, lots of great shops and restaurants (catering to gringos and rich Chilangos). But I wouldn’t live there again. For some, it’s perfect. No fuss, no muss, no bother. And no Spanish required.
Thanks so much Berverley for taking the time to write your experience. That basically says it all! 🙂
Well, I am happy to hear you’ve changed your mind!
I grew up in Mexico and have traveled extensively in the country, and this is one of my favourite cities not only in Mexico, but in the world! I can see why your initial reaction initially would be a bit negative, and yes there are a lot of American expats living in the city, but the city is at its very core a typical Mexican city, which you can see in the market and when hanging out in the central garden.
And hey, having the conveniences of a modern city isn’t bad. I love the typical aspects of my country, but I also like being able to go to a modern rooftop bar for some sundowner cocktails… There’s no harm in being able to have both cohabiting in one place!
Beautiful photos by the way, you did beautiful San Miguel justice 🙂
Thanks for the comments Claus 😉
I live here. I even moved away and wrote my own break up letter http://www.thiswaytoparadise.com/san-miguel-its-not-you-its-me/. It was my perspective. I just knew there was somewhere better out there. But, then I missed all the conveniences that are here. It’s an easy life. Perfect weather. An awesome community. Wish I could have met you when you were here!
Hi Val!
Actually I remember reading that post at the time. And I met a few people who felt exactly the same way – and then also came back.
And if I remember correctly, you were moving to Chiang Mai. My mom did the reverse, coming from Chiang Mai to San Miguel. Now you’re both in San Miguel.
Yes, I get it totally and, especially after a year of travel, understand why it is so nice having such a good base where the weather is perfect, the people friendly and the food excellent.
Maybe I get to meet you next time Val 🙂
Frank (bbqboy)